Disc Brake lock up ....

[Harry]

Went to pull the boat today, for some maintenance, oil change, and final clean up before the fall run.

Wesco trailer.
Hooked up to the truck and started down the driveway into the street. Passenger tire with disc set up was squealing and locked up .... Oh Boy..;D

Trailer is empty because I was headed to the boat ramp to get the skiff. If it had the weight of the boat on it I'm pretty confident it wouldn't have done that. However I might have not been aware it was starting to get tight.

Anyway I saw two SS bolts that look like they are manual caliper release bolts, so I backed them off a half turn each and it did the trick. The ramp is only 6 blocks away so I ran down and grabbed the boat with no issue's.

Does anyone know for sure what these bolts are for? Are they release bolts for stuck calipers, and do they need to be turned back in the half turn I unscrewed to released them?

Once I clean up and launch the boat I will check more into this and try to see what is sticking. Most brake pads I've seen, have metal particles in them. If it's the pads sticking to the rotors I would assume there's not much you can do for that short of changing pads ??:confused:

PS,
The trailer is less then 2 years old, and I hose it off after every dunk. Saltwater is BRUTAL !!

[Shakespeare]

Harry, Have you been greasing the slider? If you engage the piston by braking... the slider has to move back into neutral postion after you hit the gas to relieve the hydraulic pressure. Without a load on the trailer I can imagine the thing sticking if it wasn't lubed up real good. There should be a zerk fitting or two that you got to hit with grease every now and then.

[Redfish]

I've heard others from time to time complain about sticking calipers--especially if your trailer sets up quite a bit. You and I have the same trailer, I believe. Here is the brand that is on my Wesco. Might get some information from this link:

http://www.tiedown.com/index.html

[Harry]

Harry, Have you been greasing the slider? If you engage the piston by braking... the slider has to move back into neutral position after you hit the gas to relieve the hydraulic pressure. Without a load on the trailer I can imagine the thing sticking if it wasn't lubed up real good. There should be a zerk fitting or two that you got to hit with grease every now and then.
Never had brakes on a boat trailer before. Didn't realize they had grease fittings. Once the boat goes back off I will get after it. Is it easy to reach with the boat on ?

Thanks



I've heard others from time to time complain about sticking calipers--especially if your trailer sets up quite a bit. You and I have the same trailer, I believe. Here is the brand that is on my Wesco. Might get some information from this link:

http://www.tiedown.com/index.html

I think all the parts, tongue, brake reservoir, and brakes set up are all tie down on my wesco too....

Thanks

[CFISHN]

The trailer tongue slides in and out to actuate the surge brakes and that were you may need the lube ....
Most have fittings on the side of the tongue...

[Whatever]

Harry,

You might want to give Jeremy, at Wesco a shout...They are always very willing to help in any way....*thumbsup*

[skiff Skiffer]

My Wesco trailer locks up in reverse. Any ideas on what to do? Dealer too far to get to.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

My Wesco trailer locks up in reverse. Any ideas on what to do? Dealer too far to get to.

Either you get no voltage in reverse to activate the solinoid, or more likely(like mine was) the solinoid it's self is no good, 10 bucks for a new one.

[Harry]

The trailer tongue slides in and out to actuate the surge brakes and that were you may need the lube ....
Most have fittings on the side of the tongue...

10-4 on that. The tounge has been lubed a few times.


Harry,

You might want to give Jeremy, at Wesco a shout...They are always very willing to help in any way....*thumbsup*
He helped me out with the light issue. Might dial him up for advice. thanks


My Wesco trailer locks up in reverse. Any ideas on what to do? Dealer too far to get to.

It needs 12 volts to release the brakes in reverse. The 5th pin is to be tied into your rev lights of vehicle. Make sure you connection is good.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Harry, Have you been greasing the slider? If you engage the piston by braking... the slider has to move back into neutral postion after you hit the gas to relieve the hydraulic pressure. Without a load on the trailer I can imagine the thing sticking if it wasn't lubed up real good. There should be a zerk fitting or two that you got to hit with grease every now and then.

That is correct, but sometimes on a empty trailer is very hard for the actuator to come back to normal/neutral position, in that case when unhook the trailer from the truck, just insert a flat screwdriver on top of the slider and pull the slider out. You use the same method("pumping") to fill the fluid in your lines and reservoir.

[Shakespeare]

My Wesco trailer locks up in reverse. Any ideas on what to do? Dealer too far to get to.

If you don't have the aforementioned electrical interlock then you have to put the safety pin in the slider hole to keep it from engaging. I've highlighted the hole in the pic. Put a sticky note on your forehead to remind you to remove the pin after reversing, else ya got no brakes when going forward.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee78/CSO_Shakespeare/218DLV/SurgeBrakeZoom.jpg

[Libra]

The drivers side of mine was locked up when I went to get it yesterday,, forward/reverse, numerous times. Finally it broke loose and all was fine. After each dunking, I spray CRC or Boshield all over the brakes, calipers, front and rear. This is the first time they've done this in 5 years.

[CFISHN]

I got this hitch to level my rig so the slide works better ...

All you have to do is sit a level on your trailer then use a wrench or ratchet to level the rig out .

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk1/CFISHN62/CSO/DSC03134.jpg

[Harry]

The drivers side of mine was locked up when I went to get it yesterday,, forward/reverse, numerous times. Finally it broke loose and all was fine. After each dunking, I spray CRC or Boshield all over the brakes, calipers, front and rear. This is the first time they've done this in 5 years.

I thought about that but thought CRC or WD-40 and brakes (stopping) don't mix :confused:

I sent an e-mail to Wesco yesterday and will wait to hear what they have to say.

[Harry]

*009*

Spoke with Jeremy yesterday and he said there was a service bulletin out from tie-down (the manufacture of the brakes) It was for the pads sticking to the disc's.

He is looking into it.
In the mean time I jacked up the trailer tire and could not spin the wheel.
I pulled the slider bolts from the backing plate (these are the bolts the caliper slides on)

I had to pry the caliper for the disc. The inner pad was worn half way through and had cracking though out. The outer pad was well worn but no cracks. I could not press the caliper piston back into the caliper with channel locks which usually work on my vehicle's and had to use a "C" clamp to push it back in.

On Jeremy's recommendation I sprayed the piston and seal with WD-40.
When cranking down on it, it went back into the caliper but was sticking and popping (jerky not smooth).

I put the old pads in, installed the slider bolts and buttoned everything back up.
From the tongue, you can insert a screw driver and pump the master cylinder to apply brakes. I did this which drove the piston back out, and with the tire now on but off the ground I could still not spin the wheel.

I made sure the tongue was pulled FWD which would be like not applying brakes.

I was however able to grab the piston with channel locks and squeeze the piston back a little and then spin the wheel.

For the heck of it I raised the other side wheel and it spun freely. I've come to the conclusion the caliper piston is frozen and needs replaced.

[Redfish]

Don't know if this helps you, but I have an old 78 Ford PU that I keep around more for sentimental reasons than anything else. It sits more than it is driven, and I have had a couple of occasions where the calipers stick, just like you describe. You can force them back, spray them down, whatever, and they will stick again next time you apply the brakes. Only solution is to replace the caliper. Fortunately, a rebuilt caliper for Big Red is pretty inexpensive. As for the Wesco . . . . ?

[Harry]

Don't know if this helps you, but I have an old 78 Ford PU that I keep around more for sentimental reasons than anything else. It sits more than it is driven, and I have had a couple of occasions where the calipers stick, just like you describe. You can force them back, spray them down, whatever, and they will stick again next time you apply the brakes. Only solution is to replace the caliper. Fortunately, a rebuilt caliper for Big Red is pretty inexpensive. As for the Wesco . . . . ?

Jeremy told me he could get me a break on parts cost. I told him I need a caliper and pads. Waiting to hear back on the cost.

The sad part is I only dunked the trailer about 12 times since buying the rig. I can't imagine having to buy a caliper every 12 times I use the trailer .... *004*

I only live about 6 blocks from the boat ramp and keep the boat in a slip. So I basically launch in the spring, pull it about 4-5 times throughout the summer to clean, maybe fuel and pull it in the winter for storage.

If it's gonna be a hassle I was considering pulling the calipers, blocking off the brake lines and not having brakes.*006*

[seaside]

Harry,
If you never go anywhere other than the 6 blocks to the ramp, it might be much easier not to have brakes. I've had a trailer rebuilt this way after the axle went, for just the same reason. I ONLY pulled the boat to a ramp in my neighborhood at 20 MPH, so there wasn't a real safety issue. Before you do that, you might want to research the brake requirements on trailers in your state. You might not even have to have brakes on the trailer, depending on the weight. I would not condone this for anyone who trailers any distance, but in some circumstances it makes sense. Good luck.

[Redfish]

I know this may be frustrating, but I do think that your pattern of use may contribute. So far, I've not had any trouble with mine, but I do pull about 120 miles round trip in what has averaged about two to three trips a month to the coast. Mechanical things don't tend to do well when they are not used regularly. Sounds like you have very limited use of your trailer/brakes. I agree that disabling them might offer some solution, but when I really want brakes is when I get out on the highway for a long trip (especially if I am gonna hit an interstate or other "open road" situation where a high-speed stop might be required). If you are sure you will rarely, if ever, do much travel, then I would strongly consider just disabling. If not, you could try replacing the caliper and see how long it lasts. Keep us posted on the price of parts. I'm interested to see how much.

[justaddwater]

Take em off and be done with it. *Cheers*

[Harry]

Thanks guys.

Wesco told me the calipers are $100 each, didn't give me a price on pads.
They also said they would help me out with a dealer price ( I assume since it is so new) *006* plus Wesco is great company to deal with :cool:

I just saw the e-mail from them so I haven't thought about it much but I'm leaning towards buying the caliper, and removing the one that is working caping the barke lines, and store them both.
I'm thinking about the future and when/if the time comes to sell, and could put them on at that time.
I think it would be better to have a trailer that is set up to have brakes, to ACTUALLY have them.

Then again, maybe it was just a fluke and I got a bad caliper for the get go.......*006*

First I must search the web and see what the NJ law states to trailers and brakes.

[seaside]

Harry,
Looks like NJ requires brakes if your trailer is 3,000 lbs. Here's the link I'm getting that from:
http://www.brakebuddy.com/Towing-Laws

[justaddwater]

They'd have to write me the ticket for no futher than you pull. Keep the brakes for when you want to sell.

[brokebeach5011]

Harry, the brake pads that fit on mine are a Chevy Cavalier 1990 model.I don't know if the cailpers match up or not.I have the tie down brakes on my trailer too.I have replaced my pads once every year so far.I put a coat of marine grease on everything but the pads.These brake systems seem to rust really easily.I am going to kodiacs when mine give up.

[Harry]

Harry, the brake pads that fit on mine are a Chevy Cavalier 1990 model.I don't know if the cailpers match up or not.I have the tie down brakes on my trailer too.I have replaced my pads once every year so far.I put a coat of marine grease on everything but the pads.These brake systems seem to rust really easily.I am going to kodiacs when mine give up.

What model is your trailer, and let me know how the kodiacs work out.

[CFISHN]

They'd have to write me the ticket for no futher than you pull. Keep the brakes for when you want to sell.

ME TOO JAW !

WV requires a inspection sticker on your trailer :eek: If it has brakes or is 3000 lb :eek:

I have never had mine inspected , I was pulled over for A bad light and they did not check it !

With tax ,tags ,insurance ,and what all required cost any way , I'm not greasing some sticker shop owners hand another $20 a year !

They never look @ your car either just collect it and stamp it :cool: