oil for 4 strokes, break-in procedure

[corl]

I am interested to know what oil people use in their 4 stroke engines and how they break in a new engine. Since most of these blocks come from car engines is there a reason not to use good synthetic oils or regular oils as in a car. I used synthetic oil in my race car engine for years with good results and many people suggested breaking in these race engines by running them at top RPM to seat the rings. The motorcycle people said the engines lasted longer if broken in at high RPMs. What is the feelings of the group???

[terp53]

I'm about 8 hours into the 20 hour break in on my DF115 Susuki 4 stroke. I noticed the oil level was about 2" above the full mark on the dip stick. The dealer said that gas can intrude past the rings during the break in period if you idle too much. He recommended that after 6 to 8 hours to run the engine at higher rpms to help seat the rings.

As far as oil, he advised me against using a synthetic oil but use Valvoline SAE 10w40 oil (API rating SH, SJ, SL or SM) "SM" is the latest and the greatest according to the American Petroleum Institute. To help seat the rings use Yamaha's Ring Free added to the gas tank. You should also use a good gas additive to treat the ethanol found in most gas these days.
Before you do anything check with your dealer first.

Darrell

[workinprogress]

I'm no mechanic, but I think the safe thing to do is to break it in according to the owner's manual, which does not say to run it wide open right out of the box. The best reason I can think of to follow the manufacturer's reccomended break in procedures is $$$$. Anything you do with your motor can be identified by the dealer's computer, and if you don't follow the rules they can and will void your warranty in the event of engine damage. If your motor is older and warranty is not an issue, I always depended on the theory of "Run it like you stole it"! Good luck.*thumbsup*

[lakebiker]

I am interested to know what oil people use in their 4 stroke engines and how they break in a new engine. Since most of these blocks come from car engines is there a reason not to use good synthetic oils or regular oils as in a car. I used synthetic oil in my race car engine for years with good results and many people suggested breaking in these race engines by running them at top RPM to seat the rings. The motorcycle people said the engines lasted longer if broken in at high RPMs. What is the feelings of the group???

I've not gone synthetic with this engine yet but as to brake in, I've broke in several motorcycle drag engines and for the most part, did this one the same way. Only thing, I did vary the RPM's, didn't keep it at one spot for long but WFO was done during the brake in and continues to happen most of the time it gets wet. The oil, I do use Yama lube, I use Harley oil in my bikes. My first new bike in 66 the dealer said brake it in like I was going to ride it. Pulled a wheelie through the parking lot and been breaking in engines like that since.

[tpurvis]

I called the Suzzy Rep. I service my own motor. Not a problem for me. I followed the break in procedure by the book just for warranty sake. I use suzuki oi,l filter , the whole nine yards, keep my recites, write in a log journal all that I do to motor , no. hrs. ect. The rep said the warranty would stand as long as I followed these recommendations.

[Whatever]

Good Morning Tony,

Do you have a parts breakdown manual for your engine?*014*

[tpurvis]

Got a complete manual on order for the suzuki. have manuals on every thing else from merc. to johnsons to chevys. and jeeps. no Fords

[Whatever]

I hope I never need a Ford manual*laughing**laughing*

Where did you order your motor manual at, I am very interested in getting one*kickrock*

[tpurvis]

The second site is where I ordered mine, like I said I haven't recieved it yet, but it's on sale and the cheapest.

1. www.marineengine.com/mfr/suzuki_outboard.html
2. www.themotorbookstore.com/suzmarrepman.html (This is where I ordered mine, it's a
SELOC MARINE MANUALS

This repair and service manual covers Suzuki Outboards 2.5 to 300 HP, 4-stroke engines including Jet Drives, 1996 to 2007.

Step-by-step illustrated keyed procedures guide you through every conceivable job possible, including all adjustments necessary. Perfect for do-it-yourselfers, professional mechanics, or students.

List Price: $36.95
Our Price: $24.76

[Whatever]

Great *thumbsup* Thanks a ton *Cheers* Looks like WR4 on Thursday*014*

[justaddwater]

The second site is where I ordered mine, like I said I haven't recieved it yet, but it's on sale and the cheapest.

1. www.marineengine.com/mfr/suzuki_outboard.html
2. www.themotorbookstore.com/suzmarrepman.html (This is where I ordered mine, it's a
SELOC MARINE MANUALS

This repair and service manual covers Suzuki Outboards 2.5 to 300 HP, 4-stroke engines including Jet Drives, 1996 to 2007.

Step-by-step illustrated keyed procedures guide you through every conceivable job possible, including all adjustments necessary. Perfect for do-it-yourselfers, professional mechanics, or students.

List Price: $36.95
Our Price: $24.76

What was the last year the 150's change?

[DocStressor]

Break in is important with outboards because they run much cooler than automobile engines. Following the manufacturers recommendations for break in is important for long engine life and good performance. The break in procedure is facilitated by gradually increasing the engine load (not just rpm) with intermittent periods of cool down. A lot of people ignore the break in procedure and end up with engines that have lower than standard compression which "make oil", particularly when operated at low speeds.

The reason that some manufacturers recommend against full synthetic oils during break in is because they carry heat away from parts better than conventional base oils do. You need heat in order to seat the rings properly. From practical experience, it just takes longer to break an engine in with synthetic oil.

The use of automotive oils in outboards is now being discouraged by the engine manufactures. While SM rated automotive oils are fine for cars under typical operating conditions, they are not the best choice for outboards. Starting in 2007, special outboard oils became available that have a FC-W rating. These oils meet standards that address some of the changes in recent automotive oil formulations. Automotive oils are typically blended to the low end of each viscosity grade for better fuel economy and they have to contain lower levels of certain anti-wear compounds in order to extend the life of catalytic converters. FC-W rated oils are blended toward the middle of each viscosity range to address fuel dilution and high rpm operation issues. They contain higher levels of anti-wear compounds since outboards don't have catalytic converters (yet). They also must pass oil shearing and corrosion protection standards that are beyond automotive oils.

While heavy duty diesel oils would most likely pass the FW-C test series, modern automotive oils, including full synthetic oils, would not. So it's safer to pay the extra $ for FW-C oils for 4-stroke outboards.

The only full synthetic FW-C oil that I know of is sold by Amsoil and is very expensive. The advantages of synthetic base oils are not as great for outboards as they are for cars. It is not wise to extend oil change intervals with 4-stroke outboards because of fuel dilution problems and the fact that the engines do not have air filters.

I used to use Mobil 1 in my 4 strokes but I've switch over to FW-C oils for the reasons stated above.