Help with TM install

[Ed&Brenda]

Looking for some local help installing our TM. Never did it before and have no idea where to start. I am mechanically inclined and I do have some tools. I just need to know what is needed and maybe a hand on how and where to mount it.

Any help is appreciated.

[Redfish]

E&B, it is a piece of cake. I put mine (just like yours, except a hand held and no remote) on last Sunday. I think you have a DLV Elite, and I believe that model has a wide lip that runs all the way around the front deck with a step down to the deck. You will have to mount your motor with the nose of the bracket out even or just beyond the lip of your front end. You should be able to catch at least two, maybe four, holes in the mounting bracket through that lip. Your biggest challenge is on what to do with the rear part of the mount that overhangs the bow lip. You may have to go somewhere and have them fabricate a "stand" to go between your deck and this overhanging bracket. I don't know and can't tell without seeing how the motor fits up.

I would start by putting the motor together in the bracket and lay it out where you want it in the retracted position. Get it positioned so that the front of the motor bracket sits at the point where you want it to deploy (the instructions say near the centerline of the boat, but I put mine to the left of center to save deck space). You need to let the nose hang over just a little so the motor will clear your rub-rail. I would carefully decide how you want it to lay and pick the best angle and position, because the motor is long and will be in the way once it is stored otherwise. Once you have your "resting" positions laid out, mark the outline. Then I would remove the motor from the bracket before drilling the holes (makes it easier to handle). Then you just need to drill the holes and bolt down the mount. Again, I do not know how much of the bracket will sit on the lip and how much will hang over. Maybe some of the other DLV Elite guys will chime in and say. You may have to do something with the overhang to support it.

After it is bolted down, put the motor back on the mount and you are about through. I believe the Elite series comes pre-wired for 24 volt motor, so you should only have to hook up the batteries, per the wiring instructions, put the plug on the trolling motor wires and go.

Get started on it, and let us know if you run into a snag. Good luck.

[sportskiff]

Hey E&B,
go to cfishin's albums an look at the way he set his up on his 198dlv.
looks good.
Reggie*thumbsup*

[lever]

As I am I having problem with mounting mine on a J16, I am wondering, can you order a Skiff from the factory with a trolling motor? And if so, how do they mount them?

[Redfish]

Hey E&B,
go to cfishin's albums an look at the way he set his up on his 198dlv.
looks good.
Reggie*thumbsup*

Good Suggestion SS. I knew somebody here had that setup. I see C used a quick release mount, but it looks lilke most of the bracket will sit on the lip, so there may be no need for a stand or anything to support the back of the mount.

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/album.php?albumid=114&pictureid=1279

[Redfish]

As I am I having problem with mounting mine on a J16, I am wondering, can you order a Skiff from the factory with a trolling motor? And if so, how do they mount them?

I don't think they come from the factory already mounted. My bet is a TM is a dealer-installed option. Maybe someone on here can help with the J16 install. I would guess in would be about the same as on a DLX. (Aren't the front decks similar?) If your front deck is about even with your bow lip, it is just a matter of either shimming the back end of the bracket or alterning the front of the bracket to fit over the lip.

[justaddwater]

I don't think they come from the factory already mounted. My bet is a TM is a dealer-installed option. Maybe someone on here can help with the J16 install. I would guess in would be about the same as on a DLX. (Aren't the front decks similar?) If your front deck is about even with your bow lip, it is just a matter of either shimming the back end of the bracket or alterning the front of the bracket to fit over the lip.

I don't have a CS but I did mount a TM on the front of my Owl Craft. I laid the TM out on the front of the deck where I wanted to mount it and marked the footprint of the TM base on the deck. I then took a treated 5/4 decking board, you could use SS plate if you have it, and cut it to conform to the same angle of the front rim of the boat ( I have mine at an angle to the center line of the boat so it will reach the center when deployed) and with a level masured the distance from the part of the deck you stand on to the height if the edge of the rim. It was about two and a half inches on mine. Then measure the length of your TM mounting bracket and cut the decking board to fit with enough extra lenght for bolting, put the extension bracket on the end of the decking board over the deck with SS bolts from the top of the decking board down through the extension leg and through the deck with locking nuts and washers or a backing plate under the deck. Then just mount the TM to your new flat surface. A peice of cake. *thumbsup*

Look at my album of restoration of the Owl Craft, there may be some help there. I don't think the TM is there but you can see the reason I needed a leveling board.

[tomytek]

Here's a picture of my boat with a TM. I had Chatlee install it when I bought my boat. I'll take some more pictures for you this weekend.

[IMG]http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/picture.php?albumid=100&pictureid=1078

[sportskiff]

+good input ALL round this site....
Show us Tomy!!!!
Reggie

[Ed&Brenda]

Thanks for everyone inputs.

[yellowdog]

Here's a shot of mine stowed....

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj279/yellowdog7/DSC01607.jpg

Here's a shot deployed....

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj279/yellowdog7/DSC01556.jpg

I put mine on an angle so the front deck is clear when the motor is stowed. You can also secure the "head" of the TM to the cleat on that side is needed. I use a dog collar with the plastic side release buckle to strap mine down. I use the quick release bracket so I can remove the motor if needed. I have bolts that go thru the flat part of the gunnel and some come out under the deck area(these are tough to get to).

[CFISHN]

Hey E&B,
go to cfishin's albums an look at the way he set his up on his 198dlv.
looks good.
Reggie*thumbsup*

Here is the link
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/showthread.php?t=1810&page=7


*015* *016*

[al_e._gator]

If you look at the this thread there are pictures of my install in the next to last post. You'll see yellowdog's pics in that thread too.

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/showthread.php?t=558&highlight=trolling+picture&page=2

[tomytek]

I justed added pictures of my trolling motor setup to my album. You can check them out here http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/album.php?albumid=156.

[Ed&Brenda]

If you look at the this thread there are pictures of my install in the next to last post. You'll see yellowdog's pics in that thread too.

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/showthread.php?t=558&highlight=trolling+picture&page=2


You said in your thread that you should have mounted it on the port side. Why ?

[Ed&Brenda]

I justed added pictures of my trolling motor setup to my album. You can check them out here http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/album.php?albumid=156.

Looks great, what side shaft do you have on your TM?

[tomytek]

Looks great, what side shaft do you have on your TM?
It's a 60" shaft.

[al_e._gator]

You said in your thread that you should have mounted it on the port side. Why ?

I don't know but it appears to be the standard. I've only seen two boats with it on the right and mine is one of them. I'm sure I had come up with another reason when I made the post but I haven't a clue what it was now.

[brokebeach5011]

I mounted mine on the left because I cast with my right hand.

[Ed&Brenda]

AAHhhhh probably becasue of the hand control.

I guess it would not matter with the remote control model.

Did you guys seal the screws in with anything?

Thanks Broke.

[al_e._gator]

AAHhhhh probably becasue of the hand control.

I guess it would not matter with the remote control model.

Did you guys seal the screws in with anything?

Thanks Broke.


Yeah, I put a good coat of 4200 on the hardware during assembly. I don't think the casting hand matters to me because I don't cast while deploying/retreiving the motor. When the motor is deployed it is dead center of the bow so i can control it with either hand .

[justaddwater]

I don't know but it appears to be the standard. I've only seen two boats with it on the right and mine is one of them. I'm sure I had come up with another reason when I made the post but I haven't a clue what it was now.

I put mine on the right side. Why? Just because I guess. *006* In hind sight I think I would be better off with it on the left side. It seems to be crowded on the right with rods, casting nets, ets. I'm right handed so everything I do is on the right side. When I stow the TM I have to be careful with extra rods laying on the deck on the right side. Just my observation. When I do my next one I'll put it on the left side out of the way of everything else I'm doing. *thumbsup*

[FoodPlot]

Mounting TM mainly is personal preference. I purchased a RipTide 55 12V from Cabelas while on sale. My son got to busy to mount it and I am 100% handicapped so I could not. I had a reputable dealer of Skiffs mount it on the left side. If you cast right hand, especially with a net, this helps if space is an issue. I have a JV 17 so there is not an over abundance of room. Anyway....I suggest as most people do....Bow mount left side.

[Ed&Brenda]

Well we got ours mounted before we left for the bahamas. We ended up mounting it on the port side. Basically like tomytek. Did the smae exact thing with the mounting bracket as well. Thanks for the good pics.

Now all we need to do is hook up the batteries and the onboard charger and try her out.

[Ed&Brenda]

Ok I saw on the TM instructions how to install two batteries in series. The elite is already rigged with cables and another set of wires. How to I hook this up.

[Shakespeare]

If the receptacle is on the other end of those wires then the connection may look like this. Check the receptacle end to confirm.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h51/40oldtimer19/Electrics/12and24V4Wire.jpg

[Ed&Brenda]

Here is a pic of the TM pnl. I have not unscrewed it to look at the back.

Now that I have looked at it, I am assuming the thin wires from my other post are for the 12v receptical to the right of where the TM plugs in.

[al_e._gator]

You have the Marinco trolling/charging system connector. You can see the other parts at the bottom of the page here: http://www.marinco.com/productline-1 I haven't found good instructions to install it yet

[Ed&Brenda]

Ok, Now I am even more confused.

I looked at the site. I have two plugs, a black and red one. When you look at the one for the recharge plug, it is inclomplete. I would assume the last sentence would read "of the onboard charger"

[al_e._gator]

It goes on a 12 v charger that is dedicated to the boat but not necessarily an onboard charger. With that connector you can save money by getting a 12 vdc single bank charger instead of a two bank charger. The connector changes your battery configuration to parallel so both batteries can be charged at once with a 12 vdc charger.

[Ed&Brenda]

We already purchased an MK 210 onboard charger.

Is it possible to buy premade jumpers? I am assuming 4 gage.

Also does anyone know if the wires I already have installed in the boat have fuses in them?

Sorry for all the questions folks.

[redneckredfishr]

Here is a pic of the TM pnl. I have not unscrewed it to look at the back.

Now that I have looked at it, I am assuming the thin wires from my other post are for the 12v receptical to the right of where the TM plugs in.

Ed,

I think you are right. We can use my multi-meter to shoot the wires if you want, just let me know. Shakespeare supplied a great schematic.

Shakespeare, do you think it is necessary to connect the 12v side of the TM plug since Ed has a 24v TM? I left mine disconnected to reduce the chance of unnecessary voltage drain.

Again - The schematic is great. It can be used to connect the 24v side of the TM plug and the 12v lighter receptacle. Shake's thoughts??

Will

[Shakespeare]

Shakespeare, do you think it is necessary to connect the 12v side of the TM plug since Ed has a 24v TM?

I don't see any problem at all leaving the 12V hookup out of the connection scheme.... UNLESS the trolling motor requires 12V for some reason or the other. Also, consider any future needs that may require 12V above the capacity of the other receptacle.

MK doesn't provide any online product documentation or else I'd take a peek at the wiring hookup for you. *006*

[brokebeach5011]

The wiring from the batterys are parrelled 12 volts.You have to use the jumper inside the trolling motor plug to get it in series,24 volts.Looks like by your wires you hook everything as is,and just hook the small wires to one or the other. Make sure you have the jumper correct when you wire the plug up to the TM.

This is the plug that hooks to the TM.

[brokebeach5011]

And here is the red plug.I am not using the jumpers on this so I can only charge up one battery at a time.I don't have an onboard charger.To much weight already up there.

[Ed&Brenda]

The wiring from the batterys are parrelled 12 volts.You have to use the jumper inside the trolling motor plug to get it in series,24 volts.Looks like by your wires you hook everything as is,and just hook the small wires to one or the other. Make sure you have the jumper correct when you wire the plug up to the TM.

This is the plug that hooks to the TM.

Ok I think I am getting it. Sorry guys, I don't have a clue about electric garb.

So here I have my trolling plug. I have two wires (red and black) on the TM. I hook them to the two posts that are not jumped.. Got that.

I have two sets of cables under the CC. I hook one set to each battery and I am good, Right?

I think the confusion is when I read the book it says to hook up in series and in MY case I need to hook them up parrell and the plug itself switches it to series.


My other question may sound stupid as well, but either way, this plug has the clear cover on the back and countersunk holes, well the wires on the TM already have circle connectores and with that AND the thinkness of shielding on the wires, it does not look like ti will fit through the holes on the cover of the plug. What am I missing here?

[al_e._gator]

I have two sets of cables under the CC. I hook one set to each battery and I am good, Right?

Yes, you hook one battery to each pair of wires. For your configuration, you do not need jumper wires at the battery end.

I think the confusion is when I read the book it says to hook up in series and in MY case I need to hook them up parrell and the plug itself switches it to series.

Actually, you don't hook them up series or parallel. Just hook them up to the wires that came pre-installed. Your trolling motor plug will put them in series to give you 24 volts for running. The red plug, if you use it, will put them in parallel for charging. If you don't plug anything in you just have two seperate 12 volt sources at the socket. All this is done at the socket end by the plug configuration.

My other question may sound stupid as well, but either way, this plug has the clear cover on the back and countersunk holes, well the wires on the TM already have circle connectores and with that AND the thinkness of shielding on the wires, it does not look like ti will fit through the holes on the cover of the plug. What am I missing here?

You need to cut the terminal lugs off of the wires and strip the insulation back. Then you attach the wire directly to the lug screws on the connector. If the insulation is too thick to pass through the cover you need to make sure the plug will handle that gauge wire first. If the wire isn't too big for the lug screws you can carefully drill out the holes in the cover to let the insulation pass through. If you have more questions just keep posting and we'll walk you through this. Good luck.



*009*OK, after looking at the picture again. The insulation does not need to pass through the shield plate. All you need to do is strip the wires, put them into holes far enough that no copper showing on the TM side of the shield and tighten down the screws. Hope this makes sense to you. I deal with it everyday and see the answer all at once in my head. Sometimes it's hard for me to break it down for others to follow.

[Shakespeare]

I know this has been very confusing. I hope that I didn't muddy the water. *kickrock*

[al_e._gator]

Shake,
There are several ways of achieving the same goal. I had no idea what was in your schematic until now because I can't see it at work. The information you provided is very useful, applies to lots of installs, and was how I originally thought E & B's boat is setup. Without being on-site it's hard to get the right answer the first time. In the end this is an educational process for all of us. The next person doing this job may find your posts to be the most useful in his thread. I'm sure you've got more on the ball than I do. Keep up the good work.*thumbsup*

[Redfish]

Al and Shake, both you guys made good posts. Until I saw the picture of the plug that E&B posted, I figured it was all done like Shake suggested. If you enlarge the pic, you can clearly see the jumper on the plug connection. I think it is set up this way to allow you to run a 12 v or 24 v motor. wiring under the deck is simplified in that you just hook red to positives and black to negs (two sets of wires, one for each battery). If you are running a 12 v motor, you can still use this plug and run two batteries--just change the position of the positive lead going into the motor on the plug. The 12 v motor will now draw current from both batteries at once, giving you greater run time.

Now I hope I haven't muddied up the water more.

[redneckredfishr]

Al and Shake, both you guys made good posts. Until I saw the picture of the plug that E&B posted, I figured it was all done like Shake suggested. If you enlarge the pic, you can clearly see the jumper on the plug connection. I think it is set up this way to allow you to run a 12 v or 24 v motor. wiring under the deck is simplified in that you just hook red to positives and black to negs (two sets of wires, one for each battery). If you are running a 12 v motor, you can still use this plug and run two batteries--just change the position of the positive lead going into the motor on the plug. The 12 v motor will now draw current from both batteries at once, giving you greater run time.

Now I hope I haven't muddied up the water more.

After looking at the plug and wires, I think you are correct, Redfish. If it was my install, I'd verify the system with a multi-meter before I connected any wires...

Redneckredfishr

[Ed&Brenda]

Thank you everyone for your input. I have definitely learned something here.

[Shakespeare]

This is just another shining example of how all this confusion could have been avoided if CS would have made a user manual detailing some of the aspects of operating and using this vessel.

My 2¢

[al_e._gator]

I agree with that!

[Ed&Brenda]

I second that.

[Redfish]

I'd verify the system with a multi-meter before I connected any wires...

Redneckredfishr

You can buy a cheapoo at Autozone or somewhere like that for a few bucks. These things are great to have in the tool box and can be used in numerous situations. I, too, would verify the voltage before hooking everthing up. Just remember to verify the voltage off the plug connections and NOT the socket. It is the plug, from what I can tell, that switches the voltage. You are likely to find that the socket will not read over 12 volts across any two legs. Plug in the plug, before you hook up your TM wires, and check the legs with the meter. Should read ~12-14 v in one configuration and ~24-26 v in the other.

[Ed&Brenda]

I will check it, but I am going to assume it will be good since the plug can only go in one way.

The thing I do have to shoot is that I am putting a matched set of wires to the battery.

[Redfish]

I will check it, but I am going to assume it will be good since the plug can only go in one way.

The thing I do have to shoot is that I am putting a matched set of wires to the battery.

Yes, it should only go in one way, but what I am saying here, and I hope I am not misinterpreting the pic you posted of the plug, is that once you get your batteries hooked up you will likely find that your receptacle (the "female" part on the boat) will not read more than 12~14 v. across any two legs. It is the plug itself (the part that attaches to the trolling motor) that either puts the batteries in parallel (12 v) or in series (24 v). This is accomplished by a little "jumper" built into the plug. If you have a 24 v trolling motor, you hook one wire from the motor (the red one) to the leg marked 24 and the other (black) to the neg (-). Before you hook up your plug to the TM wires, plug in the plug and check it with your volt meter: You should get 12~14 v between the leg marked 12 and the neg and 24~26 v between the leg marked 24 and the neg.


Yes, you will have to make sure that you are "pairing" the wires correctly at the battery--a "set" for each battery. It will not work at all if you do not pair the wires correctly.

[Ron]

Thank you everyone for your input. I have definitely learned something here.

Me too. I was pleased to learn that a TM has nothing to do with my college roomate's favorite past time. :)

[Ed&Brenda]

I am with ya. I am not debating what you are saying.

[Ed&Brenda]

I have the PDF however the file limit is too small on the site to upload.

Can someone tell us what the letters and numbers mean on the pnl?

[Redfish]

E&B, it's hard for me to read all the numbers, but I suppose you are refering to the A+ A- and B+ B- and the "1" and "2" under each. You have two pairs of wires running from your recepticle to two batteries under your deck. One battery is battery "A" and the other is battery "B." If you have your wires connected correctly under the deck, the diagram is to show you how the legs on the recepticle are supposed to match up to pair "1" and pair "2" on the recepticle. A+ should be positive lead from battery "A," which goes to pair "1" positive on the recepticle; B+ positive from battery "B," goes to pair "2," and so on. Use your volt meter to test this once your batteries are hooked up. Sticking the volt meter pins in A+ and A- slots should yeield you about a 12~14 volt reading if you are hooked up right.

[Dave]

Ed, sorry I haven't been keeping up with this thread. If you're still having trouble hooking up your batteries, give me a call tomorrow and I'll come out on my way from Redneckredfishr's house, where I'll be inspecting his construction site ;D *Cheers*

Dave

[Ed&Brenda]

Yes Dave, we need some help. We have a multimeter but could use a better one.

[Dave]

No problem, I've got a really good multi-meter. I'll see if I can get Will off the roof tomorrow and maybe come with me. He's hooked up a couple of 24V TM's and I'm sure we'll both learn something. Do you have all the parts there that you think you'll need?

Dave

[Ed&Brenda]

yes everything is here. I have already tried and failed once.

[Redfish]

Thanks, Sarge, for offering to go by and help E&B out. From what I can tell, it's a straightforward hookup, but it is very difficult to explain things via a web post. It's great that you are close enough to them so that you can offer "hands-on" help.*thumbsup*

[Ed&Brenda]

Thanks, Sarge, for offering to go by and help E&B out. From what I can tell, it's a straightforward hookup, but it is very difficult to explain things via a web post. It's great that you are close enough to them so that you can offer "hands-on" help.*thumbsup*

I understand the hookup now perfectly fine. However the other day I had issues getting what I needed to the socket. I finally got 12v to both sides, inserted the plug to check and see if I had 24v coming out and I heard and crackel and a click. Now I only have 12v from one side.

There appears to be a small box on the positive connections. I am assuming they are some sort of fuse and it is possible one has burnt out.

The things that I am not sure of is the way the diagram shows and what it looks like behind the panel.

[Redfish]

I heard and crackel and a click. Now I only have 12v from one side.

There appears to be a small box on the positive connections. I am assuming they are some sort of fuse and it is possible one has burnt out.

The things that I am not sure of is the way the diagram shows and what it looks like behind the panel.

Most TM hookups have a circuit breaker. The click you heard was probably it getting tripped--just need to push a button to reset. However, something is not right or it would not have tripped. I suspect Sarge and RNRF can help you out. Hope I didn't confuse you or give you bad info. It's just hard to give instructions without seeing exactly what you have. Good luck.*thumbsup*

[Ed&Brenda]

I would like to thank Will and Dave. We figured out what was wrong. Like I suspected, the TM panel was wired backwards from the factory. Will's expertise verified it all. All I need to do now is hardmount the batteries and it is done.

[Dave]

I held the light ;D Don't forget that MCI course Ed...

Dave

[redneckredfishr]

*thumbsup* Anytime, Ed.
The truth is, Ed had it figured out, but wanted a second opinion... :secret:
A special thanks goes out to my good friend Dave - thanks for holding the light! *Cheers*

Will

[Dave]

*thumbsup* Anytime, Ed.

A special thanks goes out to my good friend Dave - thanks for holding the light! *Cheers*

Will

Well, now we know how many Marines it takes to hook up a trolling motor *001*

Dave

[Ed&Brenda]

Well, now we know how many Marines it takes to hook up a trolling motor *001*

Dave

*laughing**laughing**laughing**laughing*