Do-it-Yourself 20 hr service, should I ???

[Harry]

When I had the 20 hr service alarm go off last year on the Suzuki 90 I took it to the dealer for the maintainence. I never owned a "brand new" motor before.

They changed the foot & engine oil, and claimed to have "adjusted the valves" *006* Of course I have no way to confrim this, and it is not listed in the 20 hr service. This dealer has sold his business over the winter and no longer in business, but was a great trustworthy guy, who i've know for a while.

In the manual it states on the 20 hours service to
Replace the engine oil & filter, plus the gear oil.
Inspect breather & fuel line,Idle speed, Propeller nut & pin.
Tighten nuts and bolts.

I'm am sure I can handle this & I guess my question is should I do it or have it done? As long as I save reciept it shouldn't void any warranty correct?

At 50 hrs it is inspection only and the next oil change comes at 100 hours.

[Shakespeare]

Harry, I dug this one out of the archives. I had the very same questions as you on my first service. It's a pretty good discussion on the topic.

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/showthread.php?t=679

My personal feeling... and this is not an insult to all the good motor techs out there, but you guys put your pants on just like I do every morning and I can't see why any reasonably DIY talented and mechanically inclined individual cannot perform his/her own fundamental motor maintenance. I have DIY'ed all my motors since the purchase of my first motorcycle back when I was 17 years old and haven't looked back. There was this one time though that I was in a hurry to get out of town and I let one of these Jiffy Lube/Grease Monkey places perform lubrication maintenance on my vehicle. A few days later I looked under the truck and found that absolutely NONE of the grease fittings on the ball joints had been touched. A service that I most definitely payed for. That was a defining moment for me. From that point forward I have always performed my own lubrication service with few exceptions. For one thing you can save some buck$ but most importantly... there is no question that the job was performed correctly.

This is a passionate subject for me BTW. ;D

Mike C.

[bobreeves]

I agree with Shake 100%. I've always done my own too. As there is no requirement for valve adjustment, everything else sounds like it would be easily done by anyone with a reasonable amount of technical expertise (obviously you fall in this category). Even if it included valve adjustment, I'd probably invest in a service manual rather than investing in a dealership. I've adjusted valves on many car engines (before they were all hydraulic) and I would think an outboard wouldn't be that difficult, unless it required some special expensive tools.

Just make sure that your warranty will not be affected - your dealer should be able to answer that question. When I was looking at a rig with a Honda engine, I seem to recall the salesperson telling me the 1st service must be performed by the dealership, and that after that the owner could perform service. I don't know if this was a Honda requirement or that of the specific dealership.

IMO - go for it *yay*

[shaggy3131]

Harry,

I watched closely the dealer/owner/technician perform the 20 hour service on my Suzuki 140. He changed the motor oil and filter and the foot oil. All pretty simple. He did not tighten any bolts/nuts/screws. He did not adjust valves.

The one thing he did do that you or I can not do was he connected the motor to his laptop computer. The laptop assessed all the data and information in the motor's computer and memory. That information is voluminous and technical. He was able to determine that everything was functioning normally. He did ask if anything unusual was going on with the motor, which was not the case.

The $197 was exhorbitant for an oil, filter, and foot oil change. The verification that everything was "normal" with the motor was priceless. I think Suzuki highly recommends dealer service for the initial 20 hour service to verify that everything is OK with the motor. It was helpful for me to see the service performed. Valve timing is one of the items verified by the computer.

I will do it myself from now on and will only take to the dealer if/when I have problems.

Good luck,
Aubrey

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

I agree also with the above, i always did my routine and yearly maintenance except the boats that i docked at the marina, they would not let me, but sometimes i do it anyway.The only time that the first service had to be done by dealer was on my yanmars .

[Big Will]

Would it affect the warantee and do you care if it does?

If the answer to either of those is yes, I think you have to take it to the certified mechanic.

Check the contract details closely before deciding. If you can not get it in writing from Suzuki stating that it does not affect the warantee I'd go the certified mech route.

[Harry]

Would it affect the warantee and do you care if it does?

If the answer to either of those is yes, I think you have to take it to the certified mechanic.

Check the contract details closely before deciding. If you can not get it in writing from Suzuki stating that it does not affect the warantee I'd go the certified mech route.


This is what I'm trying to find out.
Like Shake pointed out, it says in the manual it is "recommended" it be preformed by a Suzuki certified dealer. Not "required" *006*

[bobreeves]

After reading all the advice, sounds to me like you've gotta decide if the computer hookup for general health / potential problems is worth a trip to the dealer and associated $$ or not. Maybe you could do everything else and see what they'd charge you to just hook up their computer and get a printout.

[cheez]

My dealer told me that the first service would cost me $250. I know they have overhead and all that but at this rate they are getting more than $200 for an hour or less of work. I'm going to shop around when the time comes to do mine.

[bobreeves]

At those kind of rates, and with as many Suzuki owners as there are in this forum, maybe CSO should consider buying the cable and software and renting it out to members.

[Fillet1]

I have a great mechanic who makes house calls and is reasonable on price. He is not a "Suzuki Certified mech" but is a Johnson/Evinrude certified mech. The "Johnzuki" four stroke 90 is identical to my Suzi 90. He knows the engine well.

I paid him to do my 20 hr service only because I wanted a receipt showing that everything was done per the manual. I also pay him to come out and winterize and do all periodic maintenence. When he comes out, I grab the manual and ask for a receipt that says everything was done that the manual requires. This way, Suzuki cannot claim that I did not perform any maintenance and deny a warranty claim.

After my warranty is up I will do all my own oil/lower fuel/filter changes. Its easy to do.

[Harry]

I have a great mechanic who makes house calls and is reasonable on price. He is not a "Suzuki Certified mech" but is a Johnson/Evinrude certified mech. The "Johnzuki" four stroke 90 is identical to my Suzi 90. He knows the engine well.

I paid him to do my 20 hr service only because I wanted a receipt showing that everything was done per the manual. I also pay him to come out and winterize and do all periodic maintenence. When he comes out, I grab the manual and ask for a receipt that says everything was done that the manual requires. This way, Suzuki cannot claim that I did not perform any maintenance and deny a warranty claim.

After my warranty is up I will do all my own oil/lower fuel/filter changes. Its easy to do.


That's the thing,
I don't care if Joe Blow does the work, actually that Joe Blow would be me ;D

But as long as I follow what is required in the manual, and have receipts that I bought the engine oil and filter, & gear oil. I have documentation.
IMO Suzuki wants to throw there dealers a bone, and throw me "THE" bone by having me go to them.


After spending 250 bucks last year on the 90 for last years 20 hr service & now the 140 is ready, it suxs to pay all that money for what I have been doing since I was 13. I'm changing oil, not building the space shuttle ................ Now if a valve lash adjustment is included along with other tasks it would pay to have them do it. I could have sworn in the manual I had last year, it said something about valve adjustments. This book however does not.

I called yesterday and the new Suzuki dealer in town stocks the oil and filter. I will pick it up today and talk to them. I'm sure they will recommend they preform this service... *clonk*

[Harry]

Well I went and bought the oil,filter, & gear oil.
Had it all changed in about 40 minutes. Piece of cake IMO. Plus I was able to wipe down the salt build up under the shaft cover (not like there was a lot,but.....) a regular mechanic wouldn't normally do.

Doing it yourself is
1) much more gratifying
2) you go that extra mile when it's your baby = better care
3) either way I would have had to pull the boat from the slip. This actually saved me time from having to drag it to the dealer and back to pick it up.
4) saved over 160 bucks doing it myself compared to what I paid last year, And I'm sure the price didn't go down this year on service work ....

total cost about 67 bucks........ That's a lot of gas money, well with the price of gas not a LOT of gas money ;D ,but I'll take it...

I took photos with my cell, tried sending them to my computer for downloading and posting , but for whatever reason they never came to my e-mail .... *006*

PS,
There is a way to do this oil change with virtually no slop running everywhere ....... Once the pictures turn up I'll post'em ....

[Big Will]

If the engine you have has been on the market a few years with no rumored problems specific to that engine chances are you'll never use the warantee anyway. Statistically thats what Suzuki is counting on.

I do remember a 3 cylinder design they had for 25 and 30 hp engines of circa 1990 era that had a serious problem with water coming in the bottom seal on the crankshaft. Water got in the bottom bearing eventually caused failure of the bottom main bearing and wraught havoc on the engines. Suzuki warantees covered full replacement of the powerhead on multiple engines at the shop I worked in. I seem to remember it had something to do with too much exhaust pressure.

You have a tough choice to make Harry, sounds like you have a handle on it though.

[Harry]

You have a tough choice to make Harry, sounds like you have a handle on it though.


Already done...... *thumbsup*

[Chatham Scott]

next boat.. check out the eTecs... no service for 300 hours..

[Harry]

OK,
Got pictures to go through. Super easy to do. IMO

1) First gather up the oil & filter.

2) Remove the hood

3) Cut the steering wheel hard left, to have easy access to the 7 bolts on side cover. you can use the off set nut driver provided in your Suzuki tool kit *thumbsup*, or do like I did and dump out your whole tool box all over the driveway to find an 8mm socket with extension *004* before realizing it is in the tool kit..... or you can learn all this info on CSO !!!
Remove the bolts and rubber hood seal exposing the oil filter.
Remove oil fill cap.
I used the box the filter came in and opened it as if it were flat (all the way), folded it in half long ways, and used it as a catch chute. Position it under the filter and remove filter. Let drain, wipe down area from seepage, apply a thin coat of oil to the seal of the new filter and install.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/aclineman/outboardoilchange5.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/aclineman/outboardoilchange3.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/aclineman/outboardoilchange4.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/aclineman/outboardoilchange1.jpg

4) Cut steering wheel hard right, & trim motor slightly up. (this allows the oil to completely miss the cavitation plate while draining.)
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/aclineman/outboardoilchange.jpg

5) Remove oil drain plug with provided allen wrench in tool kit, no need to dig through tools scattered in driveway ... ;D
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/aclineman/outboardoilchange2.jpg

I held the drain pan under the drain hole until it was , for the most part empty. It's pretty high from the hole to the ground to guess and miss. As the stream slowed I lowered the pan and set it down.
To completely drain, I used the tilt trim and trimmed it down to level.

6) install drain plug with new gasket ( again in Suzuki tool bag) and fill with fresh oil

The dealer told me it should take just over 5 quarts of oil. I installed 5 and checked it, still a little low, so I added about a little more to take it just a tad over full. I suspect once I start and run it the level will go down once it soaks the filter.
I will check it again once started......

7) Re-assemble

It is VERY important to have the 20 hours service done, as well as all required services. When I was looking at the oil you could see all the metal in it. Looked like gold glitter.
Now that break in is over ,it's time to get busy ....

If it sounds tough, it's not. I just didn't want to miss anything ..... *clonk*

Plus no spell check at work ...

[Randell]

Thanks Harry!
I will be doing my 100 hr service this weekend.

[Harry]

Thanks Harry!
I will be doing my 100 hr service this weekend.

*thumbsup*

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Thanks Harry, i will be doind this in 15 1/2 hours *004*,maybe next year the way i go.

[Randell]

Done !
Piece of cake
Thanks again for the tutorial Harry

Off to Bass Pro to spend the money I saved. ;D

~Randell

[Harry]

No probelm Bud,
Glad to have helped.

PS,
I could use some 40 Lb power pro since your heading to the store ..... ;D

[Harry]

PSS,
Also you didn't tell us how it went Randell.
Did turning the wheel and tilting the engine up help keep the draining oil from slopping all over the lower unit ?

[Randell]

Turning the wheel helped with the access to the filter.
I had the engine trimed level. I still had a little drip from the
old filter but not alot. The trick is being prepaired when
you pull the drain plug. I had a transmission funnel to redirect the flow
to the drain pan on the floor. This seemed to work fine. Holding it steady
was the tricky part. All in all it was not difficult at all.

Aynbody changed spark plugs in one of these Suzies yet.
Just wondering if there were any tips we needed to know.

[bp4life71]

question.....change the oil filter first, then drain oil.....correct? also, what are the specifications for the oil filter if im not using suzukis filter? i bought pennzoil sae 10w40 for the oil change, is that ok? i bough quicksilver sae 80 for gear oil....is that ok? i never do my own maintenance but im giving it ago. thanks guys. btw, ihave the suzuki 115df.

[Harry]

question.....change the oil filter first, then drain oil.....correct? . Yes




also, what are the specifications for the oil filter if im not using suzukis filter? i bought pennzoil sae 10w40 for the oil change, is that ok? i bough quicksilver sae 80 for gear oil....is that ok? i never do my own maintenance but im giving it ago. thanks guys. btw, ihave the suzuki 115df.
I would look at your manual and see what oil spec and viscosity is recommended. Sure their going to suggest Suzuki oils and filter, but as long as you use the grade and spec oil the manual states, you'll be good. a brand filter different from Suzuki should have a cross over guide

[Shakespeare]

also, what are the specifications for the oil filter if im not using suzukis filter? i bought pennzoil sae 10w40 for the oil change, is that ok?

Buried deep in the bowels of the FAQ forum, is an oil filter crossover list for Suzy 115's. ;D

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/showthread.php?t=1630

[tpurvis]

I did call Suzuki--Wrote down the name of who I talked to. I was told as long as I used--quote---"Genuine Suzuki part", had my recietes, time of service, hours, spec's. of operation , dates etc., that I would have no problem with the warranty. I 've kept a running journal of all preformed maintenance on the motor. Into the 3rd season now, still no problems with the motor, so any warranty issue has not been tested. I'm like some of the others, I've preformed all services to anything I've ever owned. I have been working on industrial equip. for a living, these past 35 years. I see no reason to let any one else change my oil for me.