pee hole

[nthere1]

I guess that is what its called..dont know the technical term. how long should it take with ear muffs on for the water to come out on a 115 zuki. just seems like it takes forever to start i guessing around 30 secs. also should it be instant when its is in the water. thanks for any help.

[seacrets]

You may not see anything until the thermostats open. I had a Mercury that did the same thing.

[Shakespeare]

The technical term is "Pilot Hole" but it's commonly refered to as "pee hole".

And yes it takes a few seconds for the motor to warm up and get water flowing out the pee hole.... uhhhh pilot hole. Not to worry.

Mike C.

[Big Will]

Water Pump Indicator Stream?

My Mariner does the same thing. WHen the motor is cold I can usually count to 3 before it starts to "indicate" that the pump is working.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

It is normal, nothing to worry about.

[nthere1]

Thanks Fellas.

[Redfish]

Nthere1--I've gotten a lot of education lately on how water flows through these Suzies, so here is a brief summary of what I have been told and have learned. The polite term for what us crude old coots call the pee-hole is an "overboard" indicator.

That being said, the water that comes out of the hole is downstream of everything--that is, it flows from water pump, to engine, and then into a system of connections that feeds most of the water into the exahust before exiting through the prop hub. The "pee-hole" water splits off from the main water exiting the system just before entering the exhaust.

There is a certain degree of "by-pass" of the thermostat that lets a small amount of water flow through the cooling system at all temps--even when the moter is cold--so you should always have pee-hole water even when the thermostat is completely closed. This constant water flow keeps air bubbles from being trapped in the actual cooling jackets of the engine, which would create hot spots on the cylinder walls and in the power head. Once the moter heats up, the thermostat begins to open, and a more robust flow of water is allowed through the system. The thermostat is designed to regulate this flow to keep the engine at an optimum operating temp. For the Suzies, I am told the water temp should be about 160-170 F to fully open the thermostat.

Keep in mind that all outboards must pump water from the lowest point of the motor--the foot--to the top of the motor, before it exits the system. Because it is not a "closed" system, all the water that is in the engine and cooling system will eventually drain every time you shut down. Since the "pee-hole" is near the end of the system, it does take several seconds for water entering the intake at the foot to "push" its way through all the tubes and water jackets and reach the exit point. (Think of turning on a garden hose that has been emptied--it takes a moment for the water to start running out the other end). Until this water is pressurized slightly (all the air is out of the system), there will not be much flow from the pee hole.

Of course, the pressure of this water is affected by RPM as well, and these motors have a pressure relief valve located between the water pump and engine to prevent overpressurizing the whole system. As RPM increases, this valve is designed to open and relieve the higher pressure created by a faster-turning water pump.

Hope this is helpful.

[shaggy3131]

Redfish,
Thanks for the most informative post that answers a lot of questions and dispells a lot of myths. I'll make this brief because I need to take my pilot hole and overboard indicator down the hall for a minute.
Thanks, Aubrey

[bobreeves]

Hope this is helpful.

Very helpful, Redfish - thanx for the detailed explanation of exactly what goes on, and why you shouldn't expect immediate water flow out of the pee hole when flushing. This should put many minds at ease. I personally rarely flush unless the water was particularly muddy as I run exclusively in fresh water.

Just one more example of why this is the place to be for any CS owner.

[o2bfishn]

Thank you Redfish for that info on how an outboard cooling system works, I'm sure it will help a lot of skiffers.

Hope you get or have gotten your problem solved. I feel your pain on this.

02bfishn *014*

[Redfish]

I guess I should also add (although most may know this, and I feel now like I might be writing one of those articles for the now-closed CSO contest) that the "flush port" on these engines is upstream of the water pump. As such, when flushing from the port, you have the advantage of forcing water directly into the system with little pressure loss from your water hose. Water flows down to the pump and up to the engine. (I will not debate which is better, flushing with muffs or directly into the port, but read further and decide for yourself.)

When using muffs, a lot of water typically flows out from under the muffs, and the water MUST be of sufficient pressure to inundate the water pump impeller so that it properly primes. That is, the impellers in the pump (as with all centrifical action pumps) will "suck" very little (if any) water when dry. Keep in mind that air in the pump housing is an enemy of the design. The impellers are designed to "push" water out of the pump. When water is forced upstream, it is this action that creates a vacume or "sucking" action below the pump (at the intake) to draw more water into the system. This is also why some water must be allowed to bypass the thermostat when the engine in cold.

The key to flusing with muffs is to make sure there is enough pressurized water flowing into the intake to force the water up to the pump so that the impellers are not spinning in a dry housing. Spinning plastic impellers in a dry housing puts excessive wear on the impellers and could completely ruin the impellers, which I am informed is not covered under warranty. (Keep this in mind when you run up on that sandbar and have your motor tilted way up and crank it.)

Note to O2B: They are still working on "my problem" (actually it's THEIR problem, but I know what you mean). I think they are making progress (that is, as of Friday they had a theory based on some on-the-water tests of the boat and motor), and I will update everyone once I have a solution and know absolutely where I am with it all. The good news at this point is the dealership I am working with now appears to have a good handle on what is known as "customer service," and Suzuki and Chatlee (the selling dealer) are both "on the case," so to speak.

[o2bfishn]

Redfish,

Glad to hear "customer service" is working on it. Sometimes I think they don't believe the customer at first, after all they are the experts! You got to beat it into their heads that you got a problem. Shouldn't be that way but it is sometimes. Keep us posted about the out come. Thanks and good luck.


02bfishn *014*

[nthere1]

Redfish thanks for the detailed info. Im learning every day of what not to do. LOL.. what are you dealing with on your skiff . What is the thread name so I can look it up. Thanks again fella's for all the response.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Thanks a lot for the info. *Cheers*