Willie
04-03-2008, 11:50 AM
This is from our member and CSO Supporter Workinprogress and here is the link to the original thread
http://carolinaskiffowner.com/index.php?topic=2129.msg17732#new
How to remove a trailer hub...
Jack the tire off the ground and block the axle if necessary to keep it elevated safely. Technically, you do not have to remove the tire from the hub to change bearings, but it makes things much easier. Remove the dust cap. There are several versions of these--some may have grease fittings in them--but it will be a small cap pressed into the outside of the hub. Wipe away the grease. You will be looking at a large nut with slots in it. There will be a cotter pin in one of the slots that goes through the shaft to keep the nut from spinning. Remove it. Remove the nut. There should be a large flat washer behind the nut. Remove it. You should now be able to take the entire hub off of the shaft. You will need to remove and replace 5 components.
1-front race
2-front bearing
3-rear bearing
4-rear race
5-rear seal
Front race and bearing are removed through the front of the hub. Bearing will fall out, race will need to be punched out from the back side. (careful not to gouge the inside of your hub) Rear seal, rear bearing, and rear race are removed through rear of hub.
Take the bearings, races, and seal to the auto parts store. They are fairly standard.
Make sure to pack your bearings well. If you don't know how, ask. This is the most important part of assuring long life out of your bearings. Install races, delicately with punch and hammer. Do the rear bearing first. Set packed bearing into race and install rear seal. Make sure to keep it even going in. (use a block that spans across the seal and hammer the block lightly) Set front bearing in front race, and push hub back onto shaft. Reinstall washer and nut. Remount wheel. Tighten nut until it actually requires some effort to spin the wheel. Spin the wheel 6-8 revolutions. This will "seat" the bearings. Back the nut off +/- 1/4 turn. The wheel should spin freely but when you try to move it side to side it should have no wiggle at all. Line up the nearest slots on the nut with the hole it the shaft and install a NEW cotter pin. (Not absolutely necessary, but they cost $.25.) Squeeze all of the wheel bearing grease you can into the hub and replace dust cap. Don't hit it in the middle. Light taps around the edges--make sure it is going in evenly. You're done.
I hope this helps.
http://carolinaskiffowner.com/index.php?topic=2129.msg17732#new
How to remove a trailer hub...
Jack the tire off the ground and block the axle if necessary to keep it elevated safely. Technically, you do not have to remove the tire from the hub to change bearings, but it makes things much easier. Remove the dust cap. There are several versions of these--some may have grease fittings in them--but it will be a small cap pressed into the outside of the hub. Wipe away the grease. You will be looking at a large nut with slots in it. There will be a cotter pin in one of the slots that goes through the shaft to keep the nut from spinning. Remove it. Remove the nut. There should be a large flat washer behind the nut. Remove it. You should now be able to take the entire hub off of the shaft. You will need to remove and replace 5 components.
1-front race
2-front bearing
3-rear bearing
4-rear race
5-rear seal
Front race and bearing are removed through the front of the hub. Bearing will fall out, race will need to be punched out from the back side. (careful not to gouge the inside of your hub) Rear seal, rear bearing, and rear race are removed through rear of hub.
Take the bearings, races, and seal to the auto parts store. They are fairly standard.
Make sure to pack your bearings well. If you don't know how, ask. This is the most important part of assuring long life out of your bearings. Install races, delicately with punch and hammer. Do the rear bearing first. Set packed bearing into race and install rear seal. Make sure to keep it even going in. (use a block that spans across the seal and hammer the block lightly) Set front bearing in front race, and push hub back onto shaft. Reinstall washer and nut. Remount wheel. Tighten nut until it actually requires some effort to spin the wheel. Spin the wheel 6-8 revolutions. This will "seat" the bearings. Back the nut off +/- 1/4 turn. The wheel should spin freely but when you try to move it side to side it should have no wiggle at all. Line up the nearest slots on the nut with the hole it the shaft and install a NEW cotter pin. (Not absolutely necessary, but they cost $.25.) Squeeze all of the wheel bearing grease you can into the hub and replace dust cap. Don't hit it in the middle. Light taps around the edges--make sure it is going in evenly. You're done.
I hope this helps.