NEW SET UP HELP 12 V SYSTEM

[CFISHN]

I WILL BE RECIVING A NEW 198 DLV IN THE NEXT FEW DAYS AND HAVE THE FOLLOWING IN MIND FOR 12 V SYSTEM BUT HAVE QUESTIONS PLEASE HELP?

THE HONDA OUT BOARD HAS A 40 AMP ALTENATOR

FRONT = 2 GROUP M27 BATT'S FOR A TROLLING MOTOR PROBLEY A 80 LB SHOULD I GET 24V OR 12V ?

I HAVE A NICE 50 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER IS THAT A GOOD SIZE AND CAN I USE IT AS A DISCONECT AND NOT HAVE TO BUY A SWITCH FOR THE FRONT

DO I NEED ANOTHER CIRCUIT BREAKER FOR THE REAR TOO ?

I DO NOT HAVE A TROLING MOTOR PLUG OR MOTOR YET ?

REAR = 2 STARTING BATT WITH SWITCH RUNNING EVERY THING ELSE

I HAVE A GUEST CHARGER NEWER MODEL 2 BANK 1O AMP PER BANK.

ON MY OLD BOAT I HAD 1 BANK HOOKED TO EACH SET OF BATT'S HOPE TO DO THE SAME HERE .

HOW CAN I RUN / HIDE THE CHARGER WIRE TO THE FRONT TO FEED THE TROLLING BANK FROM THE CONSOLE UP

WERE SHOULD I MOUNT THE CHARGER I HAVE A TRU HULL PLUG MOUNT INLET 110V

I GOT THE DLX CONSOLE KINDA SMALL 18 GA FULE TANK

[al_e._gator]

I'll try to address your questions:

1. You're going to need a 24v trolling motor to get 80LB.
2. The instructions for my 36V 101 LB TM call for a 50Amp breaker so I think 50Amp is too big for your setup.
3. You need one or more breakers/fuses from the rear batteries to your console electronics
4. I used a Marinco plug with a Lowes white plastic cover plate for the 60" TM that I got directly from Minn Kota (Johnson Outdoors) for a steal off Amazon with free shipping.
5. Two batts w/switch is good
6. You will need two chargers unless you do some fancy wiring with switches or special plugs to change the front batteries from "in series" for running to "in parallel" for charging.
7. I heard the newer 08 models have a rigging duct from the console to under the front deck. If it's there you should be able to run wires through it.

[hogtown_usa]

CFISHN,
I would go with a 24V setup up front. Like al_e.gator said, this will allow for a 80lb trolling motor.

The 50 AMP circuit breaker should work fine for the TM batteries as long as the wiring is large enough. The breaker is intended to prevent a fire if there is a short circuit between the batteries and the trolling motor. The last breaker that I installed was a self-resetting model that mounted right to the battery post. This would not be usuable for a disconnect switch.

If you add a separate 12V line to the console from the rear as some are doing, then yes you will need either a fuse or circuit breaker near the rear battery.

I would mount the two bank charger up front with the batteries. On the 24V setup, you will need both banks of the charger. Each bank is isolated from each other, so the series/parallel issue is not a problem.

On the rear, a standard two battery disconnect switch would be fine. If you want to charge the cranking batteries with an onboard charger, I would recommend adding a separate two bank charger to the rear. You could use a single bank and switch between the two while charging with the two battery disconnect mentioned above. I ordered my boat with one cranking battery, two trolling batteries, and a three bank charger. I am planning to mount the charger up front with the trolling batteries and run the third bank to the rear for the cranking battery. (Getting that third bank cable to the rear deck may cause some problems 004 We'll see after the boat comes in.)

I saw in the dealer ratings that you bought from Smith Mountain Boat and Tackle. You should make a list of all your questions and concerns and call Scott at the dealer. He has a lot of experience with boat setup and could give you some good ideas on this.

Congrats on the new skiff! 012

Philip

[CFISHN]

I went with the second charger for the cranking set. I was pleased to find
the matching 2 bank 5/5 amp Guest that I like for a real bargain 79.95 & 4.95 s/h

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0022981016459a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_BC_NYR&returnPage=cave_search2.jsp&Ne=46&noImage=0&Ntt=GUEST&Ntk=all&QueryText=GUEST&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=61+50