Water / Fuel Seperator [Archive] - carolinaskiffowner.com

bushwacker

03-06-2008, 09:22 AM

WITH THE CRAP THAT IS IN THE GAS NOW YOU BETTER HAVE A FILTERED SEPERATOR ON ANY BOAT. A FRIEND OF MINE GOT HIS BOAT BACK FROM YAMAHA DEALER WHO WAS CLEANING THE CARBS ON A 40HP 4 STROKE. "BAD GAS" THEY CLEANED OUT THE TANK (PLASTIC) AND THE LINES. HE PAID $200 FOR THAT. HE FILLED UP AT WALMART AND RAN FOR ABOUT 1 HR WHEN IT HAPPENED AGAIN. BACK TO THE DEALER WITH $200 MORE nutkick PLUS THE $75 FOR SEPERATOR AND INSTALL. 001

THIS IS ALWAYS A GOOD INVESTMENT. BETTER FISHIN THAN FIXIN. clonk

lakebiker

03-06-2008, 10:15 AM

Just got my separator in.Thought it looked small,but it said for up to 140 HP.I have a 115 susuki.Do ya'll think I ordered the right one.Its about big as a 20 once drink.Maybe slightly bigger.

Mines about the size of an old style quart oil can. 006

yellowdog

03-07-2008, 05:53 AM

I don't have one on my boat. What make do you guys have/reccomend? Are they motor specific(ie Suzuki, etc). I have a 150 4 stroke Suzuki. Are they easy to install? Thanks.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

03-07-2008, 09:42 AM

I don't have one on my boat. What make do you guys have/reccomend? Are they motor specific(ie Suzuki, etc). I have a 150 4 stroke Suzuki. Are they easy to install? Thanks.

It's a very good insurance for the cheap/expensive gas we put in our boats.It is very easy to install, all you do is cut the feed fuel line close to the engine and put that inline.There are arrows showing direction , very importand to pat attention to those arrows.

boogieblues50

03-08-2008, 03:05 PM

Hi
Its even more important if your motor is fuel injected...Fuel injectors hate water and can even be damaged by it.with carbs you might get by with a little in the float till you add some alcohol or gas water remover...BoogieBlues

Dave

03-08-2008, 11:46 PM

Been using 'em for almost 3 decades, except for one motor - moisture settled in the fuel pump, rusted it tight and she wouldn't start. Removed it, soaked it overnight in WD40, beat on it and it still wouldn't come unstuck - $280.00 fuel pump and 75.00 fuel/water separater later and I was back in business. This is the one I use for my current motor:
Suz Small Fuel Filter Assembly, Part# 99105-20006 ASY

http://store.brownspoint.com/search_results.asp?txtFromSearch=fromSearch&txtsearchParamType=ALL&txtsearchParamMan=ALL&txtsearchParamVen=ALL&txtsearchParamCat=ALL&subcat=&iLevel=1&txtCatName=&txtsearchParamTxt=water+separator

Easy to install and for little more than the price of a single tank of gas, you have a lifetime of protection for your fuel system. It's THE accessory I would put on a boat, even before I filled the tank for the first time. Did the work myself and saved over 100.00 from the price the dealer wanted for installing the very same filter assembly.

Dave

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc188/djerhart/SuzFuel-WaterSeparator003.jpg

Dave

bobreeves

03-09-2008, 07:31 AM

1stSgtUSMCRet - is the brand important, or primarily just the flow capacity for your motor and porosity? West Marine has one with a 10 micron filter for $37.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/55979/377%20710%201685/712/fuel%20filter/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710%201685&Ne=712&Ntt=fuel%20filter&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=fuel%20filter&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=6&subdeptNum=68&classNum=219

On the other hand, I really like the idea of a see-thru bowl on the bottom like yours. What brand is it, how much, and where can I find one? Do you know what filter you are using (2, 10, 20 micron)?

Racor makes one like that, but they are about $85.

Dave

03-09-2008, 10:44 AM

Bob, that should be a 28 micron filter on the Sierra filter kit. Before this "Suzuki" filter kit, I've always used Racor filters and kits. I think the Suzuki kits are made by Racor, as Racor makes one that looks identical or very similar in appearance to the Suz kit I have. http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=52237F

See also: http://www.maesco.com/products/racor/r_gas/r_gas.html

I don’t recommend one “kit” brand over another however, except that I like and prefer the plastic viewable and drainable bottom type filters kits. Filter kits are not complicated, consisting of just two parts; the top (base head) and the filter. Tops come in various types of material, (plastic, alum, Steel, SS) and vary by orifice and thread size, (1/4 & 3/8 FNTP) and will determine the size of filter you can install onto them, which again, are only two general sizes (large and small) – much like the auto industry uses only two sizes (diameter) filter sizes. The filter (of course) is the heart of the system. The filter medium (measured in microns) is an important consideration, which determines the size of particulate that the filter is able to trap. For marine outboards, the most widely used “spin-on” filters are 10 and 20 micron. For modern EFI engines, I prefer and highly recommend a 10 micron filters, even though more expensive.

Here’s a pretty good article about fuel/water separators. http://www.boatus.com/trailerclub/fuelfilter.asp

Here’s another: http://www.boatpartsinfo.com/fuel-filters.html

To summarize, the racor model 320R-RAC-01 (I believe) is equivalent to the Suz filter kit for 140 HP & below and the 660R-RAC-01 is equivalent to the large Suz filter kit for motors above 140 HP. Both filters (S3227 & S3232) are rated at 10 micron.

Dave

bobreeves

03-09-2008, 11:00 AM

Appreciate the references Dave. I'll probably wind up with the Racor, as they are not much more expensive than the Moeller and seem to be the Cadillac of filters from what I have read. I think the clear bowl is a necessity too. The marine shops in my area close Sunday and Monday, so I may see what Walmart has tomorrow when I'm over that way.

What's your recommendation on the inline filter inside the engine compartment - should I just leave it in place or remove it? I've read someplace that it is recommended that you remove the internal filter when adding an external one to prevent too much resistance to flow, but that was just one opinion. Opinions are like - you know the rest of that one ROTFLMAO

Dave

03-09-2008, 11:57 AM

I've left my internal filter in place but I don't see that one as necessary with a good 10 micron filter. My 140 has never once acted like it was starving for fuel, even while testing from dead stop hole shots at WOT. I've also run it for up to 5 minutes at WOT to see if Suz's filter recommendation (up to 140 hp) would actually perform at sustained WOT fuel consumption levels - no problem. I'm sure you will not have a problem with your smaller motor.

Something I didn't cover yet is the location I chose to mount the filter kit - part of the reason I decided to install one myself rather than let the dealer choose the location. With my DLV, I chose that location so I could monitor it simply by looking astern while on the water or easily see it any other time while it's parked. I also wanted to mount it so I would surely and could easily hose it off when I come back from a fishing trip, without opening hatches or shooting water back under the deck, where my battery is kept. It's always in plain view, yet out of the way, easy to keep clean and maintain, and the location requires me to view and consider it at least once during or immediately after every time I use the boat.

Dave

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

03-09-2008, 10:53 PM

This where i had mine installed.I requested that area because you always have a view of the clear plastic cup .

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg199/giorgosc/MY238DLV8.jpg

Patroclus

07-21-2008, 02:17 PM

This thread has proved invaluable!
I was looking around for fuel/water separators and had considered going with a Yamaha product.
Crossed checked RACOR in WestMarine and found that I could get Dave's filter (Suzuki/made by RACOR) for $21.00 less at Browns Point than going through WestMarine.
I'll also be getting the Suzuki Shop Manual for my engine there and with genuine Suzuki parts with proof of purchase I shouldn't be seeing any possibility of voiding my warrenty.

The money that will be saved from driving around for my first oil change will be better spent on gasoline (for the boat), bait, food and beer!*yay**yay*

You guys are incredible. Special thanks to Dave on this one!*thumbsup*

drfeelgood

07-21-2008, 02:45 PM

Just installed one on my 70 3cyl 2 stroke Yammy. Very simple!!!!. Yamahas DO NOT like water in their gas and will screw-up an engine in a very short time. It's REAL cheap compared to a ruined trip and a tow bill. Go big and get the kind of cannister that has the plastic see-thru bottom with a drain valve in the bottom.....you can get an idea as to what you have in your fuel and can drain any water out immediately. ( spend some money on this thing instead of some West Marine boat doo-dad!) Good luck!

schmo

07-21-2008, 08:38 PM

yep water seperator/filter are a great addition to any boat even the cheapest one is better than none *thumbsup*

wblack

07-22-2008, 08:40 AM

DUH!!!! Now I realize this thread started months ago.......*laughing**laughing* sorry Bob and Broke as I am sure you guys know all of what I said by now. *018* Oh well maybe it'll help someone! ;D

http://www.rivermarinesupply.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=10863&cat=0&page=1

Bob,
I recieved my Racor seperator about a week ago and it specifically states NOT to remove the filter in the engine or downstream of the seperator. I purchase the "01" model. It does not show in the picture, but I called before ordering to make sure that it had the clear site glass on the bottom........that is what I recieved.

Broke,
Mine too is quite large.....about the size of an old qt. oil can.

bobreeves

07-23-2008, 05:44 AM

They are not specific - they are generic. You just have to get one that has sufficient fuel throughput for your particular engine. They go in series with the fuel line, and most guys mount them close to the engine on the inside of the transom - you want it easily accessible and viewable - particularly if you buy one with the clear plastic bottom. They mount with 2 wood or sheet metal screws - they're not very heavy so no need to through bolt - just make sure you use screws short enough that they don't go through the transom *clonk*. Cut the fuel line and clamp onto barbs with stainless hose clamps and you're set to go. Pay attention to the arrows which show flow direction.

Big Will

07-25-2008, 07:40 AM

Wblack, it may be an old thread, but its still a good one...

Looks like I need to get one of these gizmos. Carbs have been giving me trouble the last two trips.

I'm planning on taking them apart this weekend. Not knowing what may be in the tank I'm seriously considering buying the filter.

Anyone know what the Coast Guard regs are for one of these? Does it have to be mounted on the stern? I see a lot of them that way.

I was thinking of mounting mine closer to the tank under the console. If we ever get to E100 it'll be like having a tap with a built in bar.

wblack

07-25-2008, 04:11 PM

If we ever get to E100 it'll be like having a tap with a built in bar.

*laughing**laughing**laughing* Maaan......you're a trip!

You're right BigWill.........lots of great info here! If you do buy one, be sure to check the link in my previous post (rivermarine) no one else I found even got close on the "RACOR" stuff.

Big Will

07-25-2008, 06:17 PM

$59 looks like a great price, but I don't know how much charge is to ship to Central FL.

$79 is the price I got locally for a kit I think it includes barbs and hose clamps. I may go that way and save the time and shipping.

Again, does anyone know of any CG regs for mounting? I guess the instructions will have something on that. Any ideas???*006*

Shakespeare

07-25-2008, 09:36 PM

Again, does anyone know of any CG regs for mounting? I guess the instructions will have something on that. Any ideas???*006*

See this Will...

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=52237F

And go to this page and enter 'fuel filter' in the search box.

http://www.uscg.mil/global/search/default.asp

Mike

Big Will

07-25-2008, 09:49 PM

Thanks Mike!

Hey check out this about ventilationhttp://www.uscgboating.org/safety/boatbuilder/ventilation/183-605.htm

Big Will

07-27-2008, 08:14 PM

I did it. I got the cheap one. I couldn't afford the big unit with the glass on the bottom. I paid $40 for a filter seperator from West Marine. However, that was not all I needed... For example:

Two 3/8 hose barbs
Two feet of 3/8 hose
One tube Rector Seal #5
Two mounting bolts w/nuts and washers
Two SS hose clamps

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/picture.php?albumid=11&pictureid=682

I placed the filter housing in my vice and screwed in all of the fittings.

Next, mounted it on the bulkhead under the console.

I Unhooked the fuel line from the tank and hooked it to the out bound fuel barb on the filter.

Then I used the short piece of hose to jump from the tank to the inlet side of the filter.

All that was left was to tighten the clamps and pump the bulb.*thumbsup*

wblack

07-28-2008, 12:31 PM

Nice job BigWill! *thumbsup* I never thought of installing it there. Did you find any requlations that lead you in that direction? Why did you not want it at the stern?

Did you have to prime it before your engine would crank, or did you just turn it over till it filled itself?

I still have not mounted mine and am trying to way ALL options.

Big Will

07-28-2008, 05:30 PM

Thanks W. I had a good time installing it. My family was a great help. My son loves to run the drill and my daughter is pretty good with engineering stuff.

The reason I put it were I did began with reading the instructions that claim the filter needs to be installed between the primer bulb and the tank - (hey I don't know why, it was in the constructions). My primer bulb is at the stern on the starboard side, so I started looking at an area under the rear deck. I discussed the under rear deck install with the war department (my wife) and she didn't like the idea. She said too much salt water back there, and it'd get in the way of the anchor rope. Actually like she always does she asked me – its like playing Jeopardy. To make me think it was my idea she asks, “Do you think it’ll bother the anchor? How about all that mud and grass you pull in? Won’t that splash on it? What about when the kids get in off the dive ladder?” Next thing you know I’m looking for high ground. So I respond with “How about under the console? It’s the place to stay dry.” She liked it. So I put it in.

Works well too.

After getting the filter in I disconnected the fuel feed inside the engine just prior to the inline filter and squirted fuel till I felt it was clean. The primer bulb did a good job of pulling the air and fuel up through the line. As you guessed I did make use of the fuel pump and the engine to finish the job. After a few cranks the engine started and hummed along.

Since I just cleaned the carbs I’m sure I don’t have the adjustment right. Thankfully a friend loaned me a homemade balancer. I plan to use it on the carbs over the next two days. After that I hope to hit the river and take a long ride. The boy and me have a few days off together and I hope to make the best of it.

Oh yeah, about the regs. I found one reg that pertained to my situation. There may be more I don't know. One was any filter has to be secured to a bulkhead.

boogieblues50

07-28-2008, 05:49 PM

Hey
I got mine here for 69.56....Heavy Staianless steel with Raycor see thru filter 60 GPH...10 micron....ordered this and some other stuff from them...fast service...good prices..best price i could find for a stainless steel one...most other places wanted around $90 or more for same bracket and filter....BoogieBlues
http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/7-0879.htm

list of lots of other filter choices

http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/FUELFILTERS.htm

bob highsmith

07-28-2008, 06:43 PM

I'll add another vote for racor. I installed the small one for my 115 yamaha 2 strk. I did not remove the filter under the cowling. flow is fine. That is not something I go cheap with. Its too important. Bought mine at boaters world. There are a few things you can get at Wal-mart but for the most part I would forget wal mart for motor items.

wblack

07-29-2008, 06:50 AM

Big Will,

*laughing* I understand the "war department" stuff! *laughing* Thanks for the report!

Sure would like to have your "crew" in North Carolina from time to time! They do a nice job! *thumbsup*

Big Will

07-29-2008, 09:29 PM

Field tested the filter install today. Works fine. No problems at all. Now I have to figure out a maintenace schedual for the filter. My guess is I'll change it right after I start having problems with the carbs again. *clonk*

bobreeves

07-30-2008, 01:56 PM

figure out a maintenace schedual for the filter

Anybody out there have numbers for recommended hours? I would expect Racor might have something - I'll take a look. Of course it also probably depends a lot on the quality of the gas you use. I would hope that once per season would be enough.

wblack

08-20-2008, 09:04 PM

Finally got mine installed this past weekend! Sure am glad to get that thing off the kitchen table...............*yay*

Big Will, same here....two pumps on the bulb, motor turned over once and ran like a champ in the driveway anyhow! *thumbsup*

Seth, Did you find the thread OK?

Shakespeare

11-07-2008, 10:34 AM

Hey, when you guys mounted your water separator assembly on the transom, did you use bolts and drill all the way through the transom or did you use self tapping screws?

Mike

Gunnar

11-07-2008, 05:11 PM

Hey, when you guys mounted your water separator assembly on the transom, did you use bolts and drill all the way through the transom or did you use self tapping screws?

Mike

Shakespeare,

I drilled a pilot hole and used screws and 5200 and it hasn't moved.

Gregg

nthere1

11-08-2008, 12:18 AM

I was told to replace the filter every 100 hours or change out every year when you do your spring prep. I had mine on for about 100 hours and noticed that the filter was starting to rust on the outside. Just replaced it but was a bear to get the plastic bulb off. Had to use channel-locks and vise. Mechanic told me that the gas causes the o-ring to swell and that is why it was a bear to get off. Oh by the way I have the racor with clear bulb dont know the model. I was told that it was a great investment to have on the boat so i had it installed when I bought the boat.

Shakespeare

11-12-2008, 09:06 AM

I drilled a pilot hole and used screws and 5200 and it hasn't moved.

Thanks Greggo. I'm looking to install my Racor this upcoming weekend. I was a little concerned about the amount of force it would take to spin off/on the filter vs the type of fastener used to secure the assembly. *Cheers*

KCM

11-13-2008, 06:04 PM

Hey Shake, you may want to take the filter assy apart before mounting it.

I did mine last month and had to use a vise and strap wrench to break the filter loose from the filter base, the clear bowl came right off though. I put some fresh oil on the gasket and then reassembled it all before mounting.

Kevin

Shakespeare

11-13-2008, 06:19 PM

Thanks for the tip Kevin! I'll be sure to do that prior to bolting her in. BTW, I like your mounting arrangement.... clean looking! *thumbsup*

Not sure what else you've done to your boat but have you considered entering the Trick Your Skiff Contest (http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/showthread.php?t=4296)?

KCM

11-13-2008, 08:53 PM

Thanks for complement Shake, I'm not into contests.

I have several mods that I have done to the CS I own that may or may not help others that I will share here on the General Issue's forum.

Kevin

What is this?

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

11-13-2008, 09:19 PM

A flag pole *006*

KCM

11-14-2008, 04:06 PM

It can be made to any length you need.

mikeinva

01-09-2009, 12:23 AM

hello,
sorry to wake up an old thread. im adding a separator to a 17' that i picked up this winter. what do i put on the threads of the barbs when i screw them into the filter assembly? plain old teflon tape or is there something else that i should use?
thanks for the great info on this site. ive been lurking for a month or two now.
mike in va

brokebeach5011

01-09-2009, 01:24 AM

plain old teflon tape

That's what I used.Holding up fine so far as of this past summer/fall

Shakespeare

01-09-2009, 08:21 AM

im adding a separator to a 17' that i picked up this winter. what do i put on the threads of the barbs when i screw them into the filter assembly? plain old teflon tape or is there something else that i should use?

The instructions for my Racor WFS specifically said not to use Teflon tape. There's a lot of guys here that use Teflon tape for their fuel fittings and with success. I can't argue with that, but being one that follows instructions to avoid warranty and service problems I chose not to tempt fate. I used Loctite #592 Pipe Thread Sealant (http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/592-EN.PDF) which is compatible with various petroleum products, including gasoline. I purchased a small tube at a specialty fastener store but I'm told some automotive stores such as, NAPA, CarQuest, Autozone, etc. may carry it also.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

01-09-2009, 10:02 AM

Pipe thread sealant is a very good choice as long as you don't get any of it in the fuel line, but the teflon in the red spool(made for gas) is what 95% of the riggers use. I used it a few times with no fail. That teflon is much thicker than the one in the blue spool.

o2bfishn

01-09-2009, 10:05 AM

I didn’t use anything on my racor fuel filter, just a little motor oil on the threads and O-ring seal. Just the same way as you would any engine oil filter. No leaks, or problems removing the filter or the clear bowl so far.*008*

O2bfishn *014*

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

01-09-2009, 10:12 AM

O2, he's asking for the threads on the barbed fittings, not the threads on the filter it's self. There, you don't put anything, only the o-ring supplied.

o2bfishn

01-09-2009, 01:46 PM

Reread the posts and you are right NEM, someday I'll learn to read. *clonk**clonk**clonk* *kickrock*

O2bfishn *014*

packfan919

01-09-2009, 04:11 PM

Yup. Teflon tape that I picked up at Auto Zone. No problems with leaking now.

mikeinva

01-10-2009, 10:06 PM

thanks so much for the advice. i got it done today with no problems. used teflon tape from autozone that is supposed to resist solvents, etc. i mounted it like KCM did.

it ran so much better. i bought this skiff used in late november and it couldnt idle well or get into gear. i drained the old fuel from the tank and lines, added the separator, and cleaned the filter in the motor. after running some gas through it for 10 minutes the idle really smoothed out. will try in in water tomorrow. thanks everyone, the info in the forums here is great.

photo link

http://drop.io/ymtq5vp/asset/fxingtheboat-007-jpg

lecours305

01-11-2009, 06:24 PM

I just installed my filter/separator today. Quite easy and fired right up so I guess I did it right. Here's a shot of the install. Hope it helps!

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1052&stc=1&d=1231716265

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

01-11-2009, 08:13 PM

Guys, both of you, do your self a favor and support somehow the "to engine" hose. If that thing breaks and it will right where it angles down by the barb fitting, you are in big trouble with a bilde full of gas, pump trying to get it out of the boat while the motor might creat some sparks, pretty sceary.

lecours305

01-11-2009, 09:57 PM

mikeinva

01-11-2009, 10:05 PM

maybe a hose clip holding it to the transom?

my wet test didnt go so great today. pulled a carb when we got back and found the bowl full of jelly. guess im cleaning carbs next weekend.

workinprogress

01-11-2009, 10:08 PM

I'm no marine rigging expert, but think about it like this. The more bend you put into a rubber hose, the more you crimp one side and overstrectch the other side of the hose. You create a breaking point on both sides that doesn't exist if the hose is straight. Put a 90deg (petroleum rated) fitting between your primer bulb and and the fuel line from the filter, shorten the line between the primer bulb and the motor, and you should be fine. The general principle is to not put to much of a bend in the hose.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

01-11-2009, 11:47 PM

WIP, good idea but, i don't like to have ANY 90* short bends on the fuel system, restricts the flow by a big margin. What i would do/did is get a clamp with rubber insert(boaters world or west marine sells them by the electrical dept) and secure it to the transom making a big 90* turn if you have to.

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/199322637msk.htm

They come in different sizes.

CFISHN

01-12-2009, 12:06 AM

Shakespeare

01-12-2009, 07:52 AM

ANY 90* short bends on the fuel system, restricts the flow by a big margin.

And a 10 micron filter doesn't? *006* I have a 90* brass street 'L' coming off the tank and happy to report that my engine purrs like a kitten. Yes, it is true that anytime you introduce a bend into a conduit, whether it be an air duct, fuel line, etc., the flow becomes more restricted. I wouldn't describe the restriction as being by a "big margin". THAT depends on a lot of things such as the conduit size, the length, the accumulative radii of bends, head pressure, flow, media viscosity (if a fluid), and so on. I would hardly think the introduction of one 90* fitting into the boat fuel line is going to be a show stopper. My opinion and 2 cents.

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

01-12-2009, 01:30 PM

And a 10 micron filter doesn't?

Your fuel pump was designed so if someone wants to add a 10 micron filter(who doesn't?) he won't have any restriction problems. Start adding 90's and a little dirty filter, and you stuck 40 miles out *004*.

KCM

01-14-2009, 10:35 PM

Your fuel pump was designed so if someone wants to add a 10 micron filter(who doesn't?) he won't have any restriction problems.

With all due respect, I don't know of any marine motor manufacturer that engineers a fuel pump to work with any add on filter no matter what the micron may be.

Can you tell me were you got that info?

Thanks, Kevin

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

01-14-2009, 11:00 PM

KCM, what do you mean? You never saw the external filters that look like car engine oil filters? Those filters are add ons by dealer or customer. On older engines you couldn't install a 10 micron filter, only a regular 20 or more external filter. I'm no mechanic or engine engineer, but only from personal experience of 30 some years.

costercldo

02-18-2009, 09:19 AM

I have had a suzuki 25 hp and it would fowl every few hours*004* until I put a fuel seperator on it..that was in the late 80's...Every since then I have installed a fuel seperator on ALL my boats...( that's only 3 boats....) the Jon Boat, the 20 Ft Hewes Light Tackel with the 250 Yamaha V-max and Now the 115 Evinrude on the 218 DLV and I have had NO problems...Yes the ehtanol on the new gas does fowl up the plugs and other parts of the fuel system over time....OF course that time will be when your 5-10 miles off shore with no kicker motor....or on the lake on a nice sunny day...You know you do not what that to happen. *001*

the 10 micron is the size you want and Racor is fine....Got mine at West Marine near Atlanta...well worth the time spent.

Placed mine on the transom ( 218 DLV) to the right of the motor as you look at the vessel from the real...

looks good and be sure to have stainless steel clamps and secure them well...

Good luck.

Doc...Charlie...:)

Whatever

02-18-2009, 10:21 AM

Your fuel pump was designed so if someone wants to add a 10 micron filter(who doesn't?) he won't have any restriction problems. Start adding 90's and a little dirty filter, and you stuck 40 miles out *004*.

hey NEM do you work for the Federal Gov?:secret:

$13.00 clamprotflmaorotflmaorotflmaorotflmao

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

02-20-2009, 09:21 PM

hey NEM do you work for the Federal Gov?:secret:

$13.00 clamprotflmaorotflmaorotflmaorotflmao

*006**006**006**006**006*

Ric

12-31-2009, 10:07 PM

I read this thread twice and It provides a lot of good information. However, I have a few questions. I purchased the Yamaha unit for my 60 HP Yamaha. The instructions say:
1. Mounting in direct sunlight may cause fuel system vapor lock. Anyone experience any problems with this? I was hoping to mount on transom, but that is in the sun.
2. The mounting Surface should be vertical. The transom is not a true vertical surface. What issues would this cause? Would fuel spill each time the fileter was removed, or worse?
3. The filter should be installed in the fuel line between the fuel tank and primer bulb. My bulb is at the tank, but since it was indicated in this thread that it didn't matter, I was going to mount on the transom.
4. Do not mount the filter below the top of the fuel tank if an antisiphon is not used. Mounting on the transom would make it below the tank. Cfishin also mentioned a antisiphon. What is this and where would I find one?

How far into the stern do the screws need to go. Is 1/2 inch enough with 5200 in the hole and on the threads.

It seems that if the filter is mounted on the stern, the hose from the filter to the engine is going to be flexing each time the engine is turned from left to right, especially when turned away from the filter. Is this solved by leaving a large loop in front of the engine?

Thanks for any assistance;

Happy New Year!

Ric