New boat, Stripped Grab Rail ,,,, OUCH

[Harry]

OK,
So It got nice today, supposed to be better tomorrow and Mon. So I pulled the cover off and it will stay off yay

While looking under the console I noticed a 3/4" hole on the port side missing a bolt. Apparently the bottom bolt stripped out and I found it between the gas tank and floor with the aluminum thread from the rail lodged in the SS bolt threads 004 Must have worked loose from the 500 + mile ride from chatlee's. I have yet to launch.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/aclineman/grabrail.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e223/aclineman/Grabrailstrippedbolt.jpg

Notice the 3/4" gap between the console and the bottom bolt area of the grab rail. It one above it was tight to the console. Since the top one is flush it really must have been pulling the console out while trying to pull the rail in. Think that's why it stripped out ? 006
I will contact them Monday, see what they have to say. I might end up taping it out and going with an over sized bolt ::) But if it's too wide for the console I might run into this problem again.....
Maybe they should use Lock washers as well as the flats. clonk

[bobreeves]

Harry - if you wind up tapping and using a larger bolt, red lock-tite will keep it in place. Sure looks like it is sprung quite a bit though. I guess the only way to bend it so that it is in a relaxed position on the deck would be to remove the entire thing. This might not be a bad idea, then lock-tite everything when you put it back together. Better yet - take it to the dealer and tell them this is what you want done.

Another thing you have to be careful with when screwing stainless bolts (if that's what they're using) into aluminum is the tendency to seize - the stainless and aluminum will literally weld together. I've done it several times and broken bolts trying to get them out. This sure looks like one for the dealer if there's one close enough to you. I don't know if you can use a combination of anti-sieze and lock-tite together.

Sorry you're having problems this early.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

A lesson i learned is tha i go every sigle nut and change it to lock nut.That is my philosophy.
I would suggest the same for you. I did it on all my boats, well, some of them.

And also, Harry, you have dirty finger nails. ;D ;D

Keep the pictures coming, man , and also the complains, so it won't happend to mine. ;D 018 yay

[DIVERHERB]

I would not tape it out bigger. You would be much better off tapping it and putting a helicoil in place and reinstalling the original bolt (after chasing the threads) that way you have a steel insert in the rail, much stronger than in the aluminum. Just my 2 cents for what its worth. yay

[FLboy3]

Harry, I pretty sure you got the ex-large console like I did. When I was under the console working on wiring and moving the gas tank I noticed that the bottom bolt on the grab rail had created about a 1" crack in the console running out from under the bolt head. Didn't think much about it untill your issue. I wonder if they got a bad batch of grabrails and force installed them anyway. Shame on them if they did. Let me know what you find out. I will keep an eye on the crack to see if it gets longer, and I will also call them and file a complaint, just in case it turns into an issue......Darell

[FLboy3]

Also I wander if chatlees installed the grabrail or did the factory install it with the console.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

How thick is the console on that spot?

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Since i'm getting t-top, i had ask chatlee to tell them that i don't want the grab rail, and he told me that CS put in on any way because the console comes with the holes allready drilled.

[FLboy3]

So the factory installs them.

[bobreeves]

Harry - heli-coils sounds like an excellent solution. That would eliminate the aluminum / stainless seizing problem and give you much more strength. Still I would use Lock-Tite on all bolts. If you're a belt and suspenders kind of guy, use Lock-Tite in combination with stainless flat AND lockwashers. But again, if it were me I'd do them all. Regarding any cracking underneath use the largest flat washers that you can fit.

CS needs a new mechanical engineer.

[o2bfishn]

Bobreeves is right on target Harry, thats the best way to take care of the problem. thumbsup

When you loosen the other bolts up the “spring” in the rail will come out. When you reinstall the grab rail start all the bolts first, then tighten them up. Thats how I had to reinstall mine afer I removed it to drill it for wires. yay


02bfishn 014

[Harry]

And also, Harry, you have dirty finger nails. ;D ;D



That's because my hand fits a screw driver better than a pen... ;D



I would not tape it out bigger. You would be much better off tapping it and putting a helicoil in place and reinstalling the original bolt (after chasing the threads) that way you have a steel insert in the rail, much stronger than in the aluminum. Just my 2 cents for what its worth. yay


Thought about this too, but if it's pulling outward constantly maybe it will happen again. I just bought this boat one month ago and never even used it yet. Maybe a better fitting Grab rail is in order?



How thick is the console on that spot?


About 1/4"



Since i'm getting t-top, i had ask chatlee to tell them that i don't want the grab rail, and he told me that CS put in on any way because the console comes with the holes allready drilled.


Tell them you still want the grab rail free of charge since it comes standard. I'll meet you at the Delaware bridge and you can give it to me ... I'm sure Nat wouldn't have a problem with that thumbsup



Bobreeves is right on target Harry, thats the best way to take care of the problem. thumbsup

When you loosen the other bolts up the “spring” in the rail will come out. When you reinstall the grab rail start all the bolts first, then tighten them up. Thats how I had to reinstall mine afer I removed it to drill it for wires. yay


02bfishn 014


As soon as I saw the aluminum stuck in the bolt threads, I removed the grab rail for replacement or repair.

Will see what the Dealer has to say and report back to you all.



Harry, I pretty sure you got the ex-large console like I did. When I was under the console working on wiring and moving the gas tank I noticed that the bottom bolt on the grab rail had created about a 1" crack in the console running out from under the bolt head. Didn't think much about it untill your issue. I wonder if they got a bad batch of grabrails and force installed them anyway. Shame on them if they did. Let me know what you find out. I will keep an eye on the crack to see if it gets longer, and I will also call them and file a complaint, just in case it turns into an issue......Darell


Isn't this place great for finding out it's not an isolated issue? I would have never guessed you had this problem too. clonk
At least I didn't use my boat yet or it might have cracked the console too ........ :o :o

[bobreeves]

Let us know the dealer's reaction, and if he'll be willing to 'do it right this time'. Hope CS is looking at these posts.

[Harry]

Well since the dealer is over 500 miles away, If thye send it I'll be more than happy to install it.

Only draw back about driving so far, but the $$ savings was HUGE !!

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Harry, the grab rail is coming already installed from factory.I'm planning to remove it anyway, but i'm gonna have to plug all those holes.

[1967JRD]

Well since the dealer is over 500 miles away, If thye send it I'll be more than happy to install it.

Only draw back about driving so far, but the $$ savings was HUGE !!


This is exactly why I didn't drive 500 miles to buy a boat. By the time you need to go back 4 or 5 times, have any issues like your grab rail or my engine problems, you will easily spend the money you think you saved in downtime, not being able to eyeball them should you have a glaring issue, etc, etc...

Hope you get your grabrail replaced with no hassles. If they are like my stealer, they'll give you grief about replacing it, since you the customer, removed the bolt yourself. Don't you know that you are untrained and far from a professional boat tech? How will the dealer know if you memorized "Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey" ? LOL!

[Harry]

Well since the dealer is over 500 miles away, If thye send it I'll be more than happy to install it.

Only draw back about driving so far, but the $$ savings was HUGE !!


This is exactly why I didn't drive 500 miles to buy a boat. By the time you need to go back 4 or 5 times, have any issues like your grab rail or my engine problems, you will easily spend the money you think you saved in downtime, not being able to eyeball them should you have a glaring issue, etc, etc...

Hope you get your grabrail replaced with no hassles. If they are like my stealer, they'll give you grief about replacing it, since you the customer, removed the bolt yourself. Don't you know that you are untrained and far from a professional boat tech? How will the dealer know if you memorized "Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey" ? LOL!


Considering all the issue you've had, you would have made the oil companies very happy riding back and forth .... 001

[Fillet1]

I dont think a replacement will do it. Its the same crappy design. Need to re-engineer it. Know anyone who welds aluminum?

[brokebeach5011]

Took mine off when the t-top was installed.The bottom bolts are threaded at such an angle that you really need to put some kind of shim up under the console to match the angle.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee128/brokebeach1150/IMG_3490.jpg

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Broke, from the picture looks like the two plates don't even line up.Is that true ? or just the picture angle?

[brokebeach5011]

I think the console is a little slanted but I think you are right, probally not that much.

[yellowdog]

Harry, I had the same thing on mine. The bolt would not tighten all the way down. Chatlee shipped me another one and I replaced it.

[Harry]

Harry, I had the same thing on mine. The bolt would not tighten all the way down. Chatlee shipped me another one and I replaced it.

Nice, That's what I'm hoping for 008

Brokebeach. Mine to is slanted too, (the plate not bolt angle). I think to make up for the console being wider & slanted, lower.

[bobreeves]

CS is just asking for trouble with the nut welded in at that angle (I assume that's how the treads are in there). You either strip the threads or crack the gelcoat if the threads happen to hold. They should either provide an angled shoulder washer under the bolt head or put the threads in so the bolt faces straight up in relation to the deck. Jeesh - these are design problems not that difficult to fix.

I have noticed some strange bolt angles with regard to the rails on my J16 as well but have been fortunate in that no bolts fell out and no cracks in the fiberglass.

[Harry]

009
Just got off the phone with Chatlee. They are sending me a new rail with return postage, so they get credit for the broken one, and It's costs me nothing. well not nothing, I did pay for a boat ... ;D But at least they get an A from me on customer service .. thumbsup

Maybe if CS gets a bunch of broken returned grab rails, they will address this issue .......

[bobreeves]

Good news, Harry. Now if you need a shoulder washer you can make one from a chunk of aluminum (easy to file). (don't forget the Lock-Tite) :secret:

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Good news, Harry. Now if you need a shoulder washer you can make one from a chunk of aluminum (easy to file). (don't forget the Lock-Tite) :secret:


Hmmmmmmmmmmm, that makes sence. 012

[Harry]

Good news, Harry. Now if you need a shoulder washer you can make one from a chunk of aluminum (easy to file). (don't forget the Lock-Tite) :secret:


No can do.

See the part in my post about return postage and sending them back.... waving

[martinmarinedesign]

Anytime we fabricate parts that require a machine screw, similar to the CS console rail, we use Heli-Coils. The heli coils are stainless and the bolts are stainless so you won't have the problems associated with using stainless bolts on aluminum threads.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

What is a heli coil ? 006

[bobreeves]

It's a hard steel spring looking gizmo. You drill and tap the bad thread for it, then screw it in with a special tool. It then accepts whatever size thread you purchased it for. I'm not sure how they do it, but once you screw one of these in they DO NOT back out. It's been many years, but I've used them and they DO work.

[martinmarinedesign]

Heli-coils are commonly used in the automotive industry to repair damaged threads. You can buy the kit at just about every parts store. Basically, you enlarge the hole to the specified diameter, thread in the insert, and your done. We use them all of the time!

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Thank you guys. I learned something new today. thumbsup yay