Hazard Warning

[shaggy3131]

Friday I had a fuel spill. I had been working on wiring under the console on Thursday. I must have inadvertently pushed on the quick disconnect that connects the fuel line to the fuel tank. In addition I had closed the filler cap vent to minimize fumes under the console while I was working. I failed to reopen the vent when I quit working Thursday evening.

Friday afternoon I returned to the boat to find a significant fuel spill. The build up of pressure from the closed vent and the loose disconnect had allowed fuel to be forced out the connection. Gasoline had run down the side of the tank, onto the floor, into the wiring tunnel, puddled on the floor, and streamed to the bilge and out the opened bilge drain. The potential for an explosion scared me to death.

I cleaned it all up and flushed everything, including the wiring tunnel. A little gasoline smell still lingers.

Is there any reason not to replace the quick disconnect with a permanent connection to the gas tank? The quick disconnect serves little purpose that I can see. Rarely would I want to remove a 27 gallon tank.

Is there chance that the gasoline damaged the wiring in the tunnel or does marine wiring have gasoline resistent sheathing?

Is there any reason not to always leave the filler cap vent open?

Does anyone have other suggestions for insuring safety with the fuel system of the DLV. I've never liked having the fuel tank under the console.

Thanks,
Aubrey (Shaggy)

[Shakespeare]

I've had a similar incident, but with minimal fuel spill. However it concerns me greatly. I'm always checking the quick connect to make sure it's engaged properly. The fumes about bowled me over.

I would say that it is good practice to leave the tank vented as temperatures and barometric pressure will change from hour to hour.

If you gave the wiring a good hosing then it should be allright as most wiring is oil and gas resisitant, but this doesn't mean it can stay soaked without some deterioration.


Marine wire is extremely flexible with a PVC jacket that exceeds all test standards for moisture and oil resistance, flammability, and cold bend. It also resists salt water, battery acid, gas, and UV. All appropriate ratings are printed directly on the wire.

I never liked the tank being in the console underneath all the wiring, but with gas weighing over 6lbs/gallon I don't know where else you'd put it. It needs to be centered as much as possible, fore and aft.

Mike C.

[Randell]

water tends to condense more in a open/vented tank.
I keep mine closed.
~Randell

[redfish74]

Shaggy The faster the fumes leak in the air the faster the gas will stale. I don't see why you can't change the pickup at the tank with a brass 90 and a pushlock fitting. You may have to change the pickup tube. I have not taken mine apart. Like shakespeare said a good flushing and the wiring should be fine. You NC guys are killing me. Will not stay warm no more than one day at a time to work on mine yet. 004

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

The fuel tank posotion is my MAJOR concenr too.What do you guys do when finish fishing, do you keep the vent open or closed? What about for storage or long period of time, stays open or closed?Would you guys smoke in the boat while driving and/or fishing?

[Big Will]

Shaggy3131

My opinion is replace the quick disconnect with a hose barb and leave the vent open.

Most boats with under deck fuel tanks have a vent that you can not close and they do not have quick disconnect - they have a barb connected dirrectly to the fuel line with a hose clamp.

I never close mine, and I have hose barb type connection. Dose the tank with a little of whatever your engine manufacturer endorses once a year and if your really careful be sure to run the engine once a month or so.

[lakebiker]

Shaggy3131

My opinion is replace the quick disconnect with a hose barb and leave the vent open.

Most boats with under deck fuel tanks have a vent that you can not close and they do not have quick disconnect - they have a barb connected dirrectly to the fuel line with a hose clamp.

I never close mine, and I have hose barb type connection. Dose the tank with a little of whatever your engine manufacturer endorses once a year and if your really careful be sure to run the engine once a month or so.




Agree, dump them damn quick connects. I had one leave my stranded last year and it took me two days to figure out what it was plus I dumped over a half tank of fuel thinking there was water in it during the process. Direct connect hose bard, vent open all the time. Anyway, what do you really need a quick disconnect for? Just something else to go wrong.
Rinse her out good shaggy, give her some air. Should be ok. 012 012

[Big Will]

Regarding NEM's question about smoking... what you smoke, could help how you feel about the entire situation.

Have had many smokers in my boat. Ain't blowed up yet.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Regarding NEM's question about smoking... what you smoke, could help how you feel about the entire situation.

Have had many smokers in my boat. Ain't blowed up yet.



;D

Just plain old cigarettes, not the funny stuff. ;D 010 012 secret

[shaggy3131]

Thanks for all the replies and advice. I will replace the quick disconnect with a barbed connector before I use the boat again. I'm going to study ways to vent the tank to the atmosphere somehow rather than to vent it to the underneath of the console. Permanent tanks are indeed permanently vented but usually to the side of the boat somehow.

I'd guess that the under-console tanks are not considered "permanent" and therefore CS is compelled to plumb them with a quick disconnect. For all practical purposes they are permanent tanks.

Regarding you guys who "winterize" your boats for 5 months, I couldn't imagine not using the boat at least once a month even in the dead of winter. In NC if you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes. It will change. The last 3 days have been in the 60's.

Thanks again for the help.
Aubrey

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Regarding you guys who "winterize" your boats for 5 months, I couldn't imagine not using the boat at least once a month even in the dead of winter. In NC if you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes. It will change. The last 3 days have been in the 60's.


60's :o :o
004 004 004 004 004 004 004 004
019 019 019 019 019 019 019 019

[Big Will]

There are some good fittings available from companies like perko, how you'd attach them to a cap vented tank, I don't know... but if you could, a high mount on the outside of the console would probably do fine.

I have a cap vented tank. It sits under my console seat and so far I've never had a problem with it.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q246/BiggWilll/2008sideconsole.jpg
In fact I know that the dealer has put a lot of boats together this way with no incedents reported todate. However, None of these consoles are fully enclosed with a door, hatch, or canvas cover. Air moves in and out freely. I actually can not remember even smelling gas on a trip.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q246/BiggWilll/2008fuelfill.jpg
And, no I'm not smoking any funny stuff either, but Dad smokes cigs, uncle Donny smokes pipe, and Bro Ray likes Cohibas. I've let them stoke up on the skiff with no fear for many moons now.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q246/BiggWilll/2008tankunderconsole.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q246/BiggWilll/2008fuelfill2.jpg

[lakebiker]

Your standard fuel cap vent is all you need unless you enclose the console and fuel tank.
012

[Willie]

I would kill for a few days in the 60's about now.................. clonk...........but that would barely start the ice to melt............ 001

[shaggy3131]

Last week I talked about the gasoline spill in my DLV caused by a closed vent valve and me accidentally disconnecting the quick disconnect fuel line.

I have purchased the parts to make a permanent connection to the tank.

However, when I tried the quick disconnect this morning, I could not make it leak, no matter what I did. Now that I know the quick disconnect can be a problem and how to avoid the problem, would I be better off leaving the quick disconnect in place or going ahead and replacing it with a permanent hose connection?

Also, what sealant do you use when sealing the threads on gas line connections--regular thread sealer, white PTFE tape, yellow PTFE tape, or what?

Thanks,
Aubrey (Shaggy)

[lakebiker]

Last week I talked about the gasoline spill in my DLV caused by a closed vent valve and me accidentally disconnecting the quick disconnect fuel line.

I have purchased the parts to make a permanent connection to the tank.

However, when I tried the quick disconnect this morning, I could not make it leak, no matter what I did. Now that I know the quick disconnect can be a problem and how to avoid the problem, would I be better off leaving the quick disconnect in place or going ahead and replacing it with a permanent hose connection?

Also, what sealant do you use when sealing the threads on gas line connections--regular thread sealer, white PTFE tape, yellow PTFE tape, or what?

Thanks,
Aubrey (Shaggy)


By all means, go ahead and replace them. I couldn't tell mine was "sucking" air either.
You don't really need a sealer but if it makes ya happy, just use the tape on the threaded part that goes into the tank, hose clamps take care of the rest. Oh, don't forget to re use or replace your squeze bulb. You're still gonna need that.
012 012

[Shakespeare]

Never use any Teflon tape or pipe dope on fuel fittings.
From; http://www.automedia.com/Gas_Tank__Fuel_Line_Replacement/res20050301gt/1

To contradict that, when I purchased a storage tank for some off road diesel they gave me some liquid pipe dope for the plumbing.

The stuff was called Leak Lock by Highside Chemicals, Inc. It looks to be ok with fuel fittings.

See; http://www.highsidechem.com/lklcksp.html

Mike C.

[sportskiff]

Hello,
aircraft mechanic here, use teflon tape, it's white, just don't wrap all the way to the end. Pipe dope will work, it just tends to be messy, long after you put it on.
Reggie thumbsup

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Hello,
aircraft mechanic here, use teflon tape, it's white, just don't wrap all the way to the end. Pipe dope will work, it just tends to be messy, long after you put it on.
Reggie thumbsup


Ditto. I use teflon all the time and leave the last two threads uncovered. thumbsup

[shaggy3131]

I reinstalled the fuel line this afternoon without the quick disconnect. I used the yellow (natural gas and propane) teflon tape. It's heavier than the white. I did split so the first couple of threads were not covered.

Thanks all for the guidance. I better not leak now.

Aubrey (Shaggy)