Trailering with outboard raised or lowered?

[johnorth]

Hi all. Recently I've read two conflicting opinions about trailering a boat with an outboard. One says to keep the engine raised to avoid having the lower unit hit something. The other says that keeping it raised creates stress on the transom, so trailer with the engine lowered. I'm relatively new to pulling a boat, so am confused about which advice to follow. My inclination would be to keep it raised, which I think is what I've seen most people do.

What do y'all do? I'd value your input. Thanks!

[justaddwater]

They're both correct. Leaving it down increases the chance your skeg could hit something. Raising it up increases the leaverage your motor has on the transom when you bounce across something in the road. Personally I feel the transom is strong enough to withstand this pressure as it holds up to full power from the same motor that I think has a much better chance of damaging it when getting you up on plane. Therefore I raise my motor until it hits the fast speed on the power trim, unless I'm going down my driveway in Mt Olive and I know for a fact it will hit the cement while transitioning onto the street,(don't ask) otherwise the point where the trim speeds up I feel gives me enough clearance under the lower unit to clear the road hazzards. Everyone's settup will be different, I have about a foot and a half at this setting. And most importantly, it looks better this way.*003*rotflmaorotflmao

[Gary13]

I agree with Bob....at any given time, both are correct. I carry mine raised just enough to clear the the street after leaving the ramp (again....better not to ask rotflmao ) I leave it there for the entire trip.
There are all kind of gizmos to take the pressure off of the transom (transom-savers) and the power tilt/trim but I personally have never tried any of them but others swear by them (or at them). I couldn't recommend one method over the other but I have never had a problem with my engine, transom, or PTT unit from the way I set mine up. Good luck on selecting what works for you or at least makes you feel good about it. Kinda like selecting the 'best' way to cook a fish *laughing* .
*Cheers*
Gary13®

[DCRICE]

But my boat sits up high on the trailer. Too high for some flat shallow boat ramps. I could drop it donw on the trailer, but then I would need to raise the outboard. Then I would worry about the transom and start fighting a transom saver. It all spins and spins. If you have enough road clearance, leave it down. No worries.
Fried with beer and mustard batter is the best fish.

[Dave]

With the motor trimmed vertical and with the skiff on my trailer, there is only a few inches clearing the ground/road so I don't have the option of leaving it down, otherwise I would leave the motor down and against the trim/tilt pistons and fugetaboutit.

Since I can't leave the motor against the built-in cushion of the pistons, I use the m-ywedge motor support and like how, when the motor is positioned correctly and pressing against the top of the m-wedge, the motor rides in place against its firm (but somewhat forgiving) rubber top, and feel like that helps direct and absorb any (jolting) pressure away from the transom and hydraulics, in case of any road irregularities I may run across.

[throrope]

johnorth

I think I've been hanging around here too long. Then again, I might get caught, get fired, move to a warm southern coastal town and spend this time on the water instead.:cool:

A transom saver is available in our dock sale, but I'm not sure it will match your outboard: http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/showthread.php?12903-Got-rid-of-the-boat-GPS-VHF-CD-Electrical-Components-Misc-Parts-NEED-TO-GO!&highlight=transom+saver

I suggest starting with the owner's manual and tapping the following:

http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/showthread.php?12489-Power-Tilt-and-Trim-Towing&highlight=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...light=throrope
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...ransom%20saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver
http://www.carolinaskiffowner.com/sh...=transom+saver

Good luck, hope this helps, post pictures and I'll add yours to the list.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

If you have the option of leaving the motor down, it would be the best option, no stress on the transom and/or the tilt motor.

[OBX Hokie]

Evinrude recommends trailering with the engine up and using the factory locking mechanism. So that is what I do.

[Harry]

I trailer with the motor up, raised , & locked like Bill (OBX) described. Always had and guess old habits are hard to break.

[CFISHN]

I have always trailer with the motor up , with the support that attaches to the trailer !

Craig

[Island Man]

The mechanic at the dealership told me the locking mechanism on an outboard was just for safety when they are working on them. I trailer mine raised slightly so it rides on the hydraulics just high enough to clear the road etc.

This is from Mercury, I may have to rethink my position.

What precautions should I take when trailering my outboard powered boat with the engine attached?

Trailer your boat with the outboard tilted down (vertical operating position). Shift the outboard to forward gear. This prevents the propeller from spinning freely. If additional ground clearance is required, the outboard should be tilted up using an accessory outboard support device. Refer to your local dealer for recommendations. Additional clearance may be required for railroad crossings, driveways and trailer bouncing.
IMPORTANT: Do not rely on the power trim/tilt system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering.

This is from Yamaha

[Island Man]

Yamaha
No. The Tilt Support Lever is to be used only for storage purposes. The Tilt Support Lever was not designed to withstand the strain of transport and could break causing damage to the Tilt Support Lever and/or other bracket components.
No. The Tilt Support Lever is to be used only for storage purposes. The Tilt Support Lever was not designed to withstand the strain of transport and could break causing damage to the Tilt Support Lever and/or other bracket components.

Yamaha now offers an accessory for transporting called “Outboard Trailering Support.” Learn more about the Outboard Trailering Support (http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/accessories/acscitemdetail/5/258/1095/9131/all/1/8045/0/detail.aspx), as it is not designed to be used with every model.

There are also many aftermarket companies that provide “wedges” or “transom savers” that can offer a solution for your transportation needs. Please make sure that whatever aftermarket component you use is designed to work specifically with your model Yamaha outboard.

[KI-NC]

I may be a little late to jump in here on this topic, but this is what I bought when I bought my boat.

I was told from the dealer that using the support lever while trailering will void your warranty.

This is what Yamaha wants you to use, and is sold on their website.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/accessories/acscitemdetail/5/256/1093/9190/all/1/8045/0/detail.aspx

Also a blurb right off Yamaha's website about the support lever.

NOTE: Yamaha Owner’s Manuals caution that an additional support device(s) must be utilized when trailering and not to rely on the outboard’s tilt support lever. This tilt support lever is provided for use only during maintenance, service procedures and storage and is not designed to properly support the outboard during trailering.

[johnorth]

Thanks KI. I've seen that page on the Yamaha site, but it only talks about 70+ hp engines. Mine is only a 50hp on a 17' skiff. Maybe I don't need to worry...still the drive is about 200 miles and it makes me a little nervous...

thanks for your response!

-John

[mikeinva]

i go with down now, but didn't always. i used the lever at first and it always seemed to bounce and flop around. then i realized that if i pass something high enough to hit the motor (in lowered position) it would have already taken out my trailer axle. *001*

[throrope]

i go with down now, but didn't always. i used the lever at first and it always seemed to bounce and flop around. then i realized that if i pass something high enough to hit the motor (in lowered position) it would have already taken out my trailer axle. *001*

You may be waiting for trouble. The tires will lift the axle over a bump. A dip can also bottom out the your hitch. The skeg will make a very expensive bang. A wedge costs 40 bucks. Yea, expensive for a block of rubber, but a tiny fraction of a lower end.

[mikeinva]

You may be waiting for trouble. The tires will lift the axle over a bump. A dip can also bottom out the your hitch. The skeg will make a very expensive bang. A wedge costs 40 bucks. Yea, expensive for a block of rubber, but a tiny fraction of a lower end.

good point. luckily i only have to go 3-7 miles to my ramps, on roads i know well. if i go anywhere else i might consider a diy solution.

[KI-NC]

John, good point on the 50HP, not sure. When in doubt call yamaha and ask. You could always use a transom saver too.

[bp4life71]

I trailer with the motor up, raised , & locked like Bill (OBX) described. Always had and guess old habits are hard to break.

This is our answer here. Trim up and use your locking mechanism. A bump or pothole in the road has nothing on you powering up on a holeshot for stressing a transom. As far as a transom saver, they are actually transom killers! Why? Think about your trailer, every bump you hit in the road is directly channelled through your "transom saver" and delivered directly to the very thing yor trying to save. Don't use them! My experience is from using various types of devices and countless studies concerning this. I am a marine instructor for DHS and on all our boats, which includes triple and quadruple outboards, we simply use the

[bp4life71]

....continuing

We simply use the locking mechanism.

On my personal boat that's all I use and I have dragged my boat to and from Ny, fl, ga,va,and Delaware with nary a problem. Locking mechanism is all you need. Remember, no transom killer, errr, savers!

[Bull54]

I think I am more confused now, on if I should use one or not *LOL*

I have always used the locking pin in smaller motors 20hp or less but on everything higher HP I have always used a transom saver.*006*

I am not as concerned with taking a hit on the skeg (since mine is always tilted up)as I am in making sure my transom is not ripped off the boat. So what keeps the most pressure OFF the TRANSOM when going down the road??

[bp4life71]

I think I am more confused now, on if I should use one or not *LOL*

I have always used the locking pin in smaller motors 20hp or less but on everything higher HP I have always used a transom saver.*006*

I am not as concerned with taking a hit on the skeg (since mine is always tilted up)as I am in making sure my transom is not ripped off the boat. So what keeps the most pressure OFF the TRANSOM when going down the road??

I never use a transom saver....they actually direct pressure straight from trailer to your outboard. Read my post a few posts up. I have trailered from upstate my to Florida and Georgia many times using only locking mechanism with no problems. While instructing at marine school for dhs we routinely trailered boats with triple and quadruple outboards only on locking mechanism. And these motors were 250-300 suzukis and yamahas.

Cheers