Surge Brake Disconnect

[CFISHN]

I have had Problems several times with my surge break disconnect not actuating causing me not to be able to back up *006*

I now tend to leave the pin in Disabling the system *001*

I even tried wired it "the 5th pin up direct to the reverse light !


I was looking for info and found a note about the wire size going from the rear back up light "that works the solenoid" having to be rather large like 10 , 12 maybe 14 Ga to work properly ?

Has any one else had problems with the lock out solenoid like I have ?

Is their some tricks or knowledge that will help me understand why mine gives me fits ?

Dose it have to be level when put in reverse to work ?

I'm close to Punting on this one !


Craig

[throrope]

Hmmm.... Low voltage power makes for big amps and 12 volts is low. More amps mean larger wires and bigger connections are needed. Bad connections and small wires mean more resistance, less voltage and less power. If the wires feeding the back up lights are sized just for them, asking more may be trouble.

Since I'm chea---ahhh---thrifty, if I were you, I'd repeatedly test the solenoid from the car battery with 4 gauge jumper cables. If successful, look to power a heavy duty relay from the back-up lights to switch power from a 30 amp 10 gauge circuit. If I recall, one of the 7 wire trailer connections is a hot 30 amp circuit that often is used to feed trailer batteries.

BTW, the only time I had surge brakes was on a U-Haul car carrier. After running electric brakes for 10+ years, the performance pleasantly surprised me.

Good luck and share.

[CFISHN]

Hmmm.... Low voltage power makes for big amps and 12 volts is low. More amps mean larger wires and bigger connections are needed. Bad connections and small wires mean more resistance, less voltage and less power. If the wires feeding the back up lights are sized just for them, asking more may be trouble.

Since I'm chea---ahhh---thrifty, if I were you, I'd repeatedly test the solenoid from the car battery with 4 gauge jumper cables. If successful, look to power a heavy duty relay from the back-up lights to switch power from a 30 amp 10 gauge circuit. If I recall, one of the 7 wire trailer connections is a hot 30 amp circuit that often is used to feed trailer batteries.

BTW, the only time I had surge brakes was on a U-Haul car carrier. After running electric brakes for 10+ years, the performance pleasantly surprised me.

Good luck and share.

The breaks work when the tong slides forward applying pressure to the tong , causing fluid to work the brakes

Their is a small solenoid "? " not sure if that what it's called " on the tong that interrupts the fluid to the breaks allowing you to back up !

[corl]

I use a metal pin that goes into the coupling that prevents the mechanical sliding that causes the brakes to work. Just insert the pin when you are ready to launch the boat and it backs up.

I thought the electric brakes wouldn't work when under water - blow a fuse

I have electric brakes on everything but my boat trailer.

[CFISHN]

I use a metal pin that goes into the coupling that prevents the mechanical sliding that causes the brakes to work. Just insert the pin when you are ready to launch the boat and it backs up.

I thought the electric brakes wouldn't work when under water - blow a fuse

I have electric brakes on everything but my boat trailer.

When you put your car in reverse the back up light comes on and that wire attached to that circuit clauses the solenoid to lock till you shift out of reverse and it goes off !

This is so you do not have to use the pin *006* but I can't get mine to work consistently *001*

*popcorn*

[corl]

Mine either, thats why I use the pin. Works every time. Keeps me happy!

[corl]

Actually I always disconnect the power to the trailer prior to dunking it to prevent fuse problems so the pin is necessary when there is no juice to the trailer.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Craig, change the back up solenoid with a new one and once a month(use it or not use it) spray it with CRC655, then cover the whole actuator with a plastic bag to protect it from rain. Usually there is a hole on top of the actuator right on top of the solenoid and gets rusty with the rain water when it gets wet. That thing is 10 bucks to buy it and a royal PITA to change, then you have to bleed the brake lines.

[lunchpail]

We got the skiff in March. We store it in our garage and need to back up asteep driveway to get in. we never had to put the lockout pin in to prevent surge brakes from activating. Now, when I pull boat out to run the motor every 2 weeks and try to back it in, the brakes engage! Being a newbie it took a few attempts before I figured out there was a pin to lock out the brakes, lmao now! But I wonder why I hadn't needed to lock them out until now?

[CFISHN]

We got the skiff in March. We store it in our garage and need to back up asteep driveway to get in. we never had to put the lockout pin in to prevent surge brakes from activating. Now, when I pull boat out to run the motor every 2 weeks and try to back it in, the brakes engage! Being a newbie it took a few attempts before I figured out there was a pin to lock out the brakes, lmao now! But I wonder why I hadn't needed to lock them out until now?

When your trailer lights are plugged in and your in reverse your white backup lights get power ...

From the same circuit only when you in reverse your trailer brake solenoid activates locking out the brake fluid from the brakes so you can back up !


It's A great thing if it works !


Even with all the problems and inconvenience the Surge Breaks are a wonderful thing to have when you start get close to a ton #2000 :secret:

Craig

[lunchpail]

Son of gun! Now it all makes sense ! Thank you Craig.I haven't been plugging in the lights for the move down and up the driveway, so the brakes activated when I stopped and put truck in park to run boat motor. And when I back down a boat ramp I too unplug the lights to prevent a short when dipping lights in water.But because I'm BACKIND down, the brakes don't activate by the solenoid! Anyway, hope you solve your mystery, Craig.You sure got me straightened out.*yay*

[sheriff@co.mathews.va.us]

Craig, the guy that is working with me on my trailer issue, has been the boat trailer business many years. He gave some advice. He only sells boat trailers, so he should know what he is talking about. The Surge solenoid is for driving around town or highway use, and when you get into a situation where you have to back up it blocks the flow of fluid to the brakes. Any other time the pin should be inserted. Backing down the ramp, backing into a shed or garage and basically anytime you may leave the trailer for a while. The helps greatly in preventing the brake pad from sticking to the rotors. Don’t know what type of construction your trailer is, but if it is aluminum disconnecting the lights also helps prevent electrolysis of the trailer, thus you have to use the pin. By not doing this in the beginning I had issues with the piston in the calipers. The piston was sticking causing heat build-up and the brakes to malfunction. Just some ideas to try. Dan

[CFISHN]

Thanks Dan
Very good info *thumbsup*

Here is the best trailer info site i have found !
http://www.rockettrailers.com/BeforeTowing.htm
Find Good link near the top of the first page....
Top Ten Tips | Maintenance Schedule | Before Towing | General Maintenance | Storing Your Trailer | Trouble Shooting

I bought my bow stop here !

Craig

[Harry]

Craig, the guy that is working with me on my trailer issue, has been the boat trailer business many years. He gave some advice. He only sells boat trailers, so he should know what he is talking about. The Surge solenoid is for driving around town or highway use, and when you get into a situation where you have to back up it blocks the flow of fluid to the brakes. Any other time the pin should be inserted. Backing down the ramp, backing into a shed or garage and basically anytime you may leave the trailer for a while. The helps greatly in preventing the brake pad from sticking to the rotors. Don’t know what type of construction your trailer is, but if it is aluminum disconnecting the lights also helps prevent electrolysis of the trailer, thus you have to use the pin. By not doing this in the beginning I had issues with the piston in the calipers. The piston was sticking causing heat build-up and the brakes to malfunction. Just some ideas to try. Dan

You all are amazing & great info right there. Thanks for sharing.

My driveway is inclined when pulling in. So it makes sense when backing in the trailer the truck is pushing against the trailer,thus applying the trailer brakes. When I get the trailer into position I simply chock the wheels,unhook everything and hose it down.
What you says makes perfect sense and most likely why my 2008 trailer (IMO) had premature issue's with the caliper pistons and linings sticking to the rotors.
They were sticking so bad, I completely removed the calipers a couple weeks ago and capped off the brake lines. I will see if I can free them over the winter.
In hind sight after seeing your post, I should have inserted the pin to block the brakes from being applied when backing up the incline and staying in the "applied" position while at rest.

THANKS.*Cheers*

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

My driveway is also an uphill to back in my boat, so what i do is i back up normally (no pin), i chock the trailer tires, then i put my truck in neutral and rolls until the weight of the boat stops it, put my emergency brake on, then on "park", then i unhitch the trailer, this way the actuator is all the way out. There is another way of doing it by inserting a thick screwdriver inside the hole and push it out, same way when you bleed the brake lines. At the end of the season i also put 4 jacks under the trailer beams and lift the trailer up to take the load out of the springs/torsion axle and tires.

[seaside]

My driveway is also an uphill to back in my boat, so what i do is i back up normally (no pin), i chock the trailer tires, then i put my truck in neutral and rolls until the weight of the boat stops it, put my emergency brake on, then on "park", then i unhitch the trailer, this way the actuator is all the way out. There is another way of doing it by inserting a thick screwdriver inside the hole and push it out, same way when you bleed the brake lines. At the end of the season i also put 4 jacks under the trailer beams and lift the trailer up to take the load out of the springs/torsion axle and tires.

The link CFISHIN provided essentially tells you to do what Nothing Else Matters says he does - once you park the trailer pull forward a little to move the actuator out and release pressure on the calipers.

[TrailerGuy]

Free backing brakes would solve this issue in a heart beat too