How to wire in accessories

[workinprogress]

I have just read a few posts here in the electronics section and am happy to see several of you are very sharp about wiring. I have a VERY basic knowledge about wiring and need some help. I don't even know what a buss box is and don't have any idea what gauge wire and amperage fuses I need. I will be wiring from a single 12V battery. I have two position (on and off) toggle switches. I need four switches to power an intake pump for the dual livewells, a recirculation pump in each livewell, and the bow light. I need power for a GPS that I don't see any reason to put on a switch, although maybe I'm wrong. Can you guys give me the basic setup on where to install fuses, breakers, switches, etc... as well as appropriate size of these items. Thanks in advance.

[Shakespeare]

Blue Sea Systems, http://bluesea.com/ is one of the more popular manufacturers of marine electrical distribution componentry.

If it were I, I would probably mount one of their ST blade type fuse panels for expansion of the electrical system. This panel accepts ATO/ATC fuse types which is the same type used in automotive applications. Since it uses automotive type fuses then you can find a source for them at any auto parts store, Radio Shack, etc. There are other options as well as far as fuse types or circuit breakers, the latter being substantially more expensive.

http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/productline/126

Before we go too far into specifying wire size, panels, and so forth... we're going to need a bit more information. Your intake pump and livewell circulators should have the full load current stamped on them somewhere. We're going to need that. The bow light can be put on a general purpose circuit as well as the GPS. The GPS should have its' own inline fuse and it's a matter of personal preference if you want to put it on a switch or not. A lot of guys install a main battery switch which essentially cuts everything off. This adds peace of mind plus is valuable from a safety standpoint. See http://bluesea.com/category/1/productline/2

The basic setup goes something like this; You will pull a new feeder (size tbd) from the battery to your console. You'll have to install a "main" fuse at the battery to protect the feeder. The wire at the console will terminate at your new fuse panel. You'll determine individual circuit loads, size the wiring and fuses appropriately and run the circuits towards their intended destination whether it be a toggle switch or other place.

The Blue Sea site also has a Circuit Wizard for determining wire size. So you could attempt to embark on this journey on your own using the wizard or one of us would be more than glad to guide you through the process. See; http://beta.circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

Looking forward to hearing back from you on this project.

Mike C.

[shaggy3131]

With all the advice, help, information, and encouragement from members of the forum, yesterday I got up my courage and began the process of installing a GPS/Chartplotter/depth sounder and second battery, battery switch, and battery isolator on my DLV238. First Sarge's post on his 26 mile trip out the other day gave me the incentive to get things finished ASAP. For the last 6 weeks, I've been gathering supplies--wire, connectors, fuse holders, new breaker panel, shrink tubing, digital meter, etc. Finally I dug in. Day time high here in Central NC was 73 yesterday. I could have gone to the lake and put these chores off (again), but I showed discipline and dug in.

Boy was it frustrating. First, just removing the floor flange at the forward opening of the wiring tunnel was a challenge. Whoever installed that flange had stripped the head of one of the screws-naturally the one hardest to see and get to. Once that and the tubing around the collection of wires and control cables was removed, I found two feet of wiring harness had been stuffed down in the tunnel. Next I pulled the new positive and negative (8 ga.) leads through the tunnel. Then I pulled the GPS cable (for the external receiver to be mounted on the starboard stern corner), the transducer cable, and the speed wheel cable. These had 3/4 inch diameter fittings on the ends. They were a bear to get through the tunnel. I was afraid of damaging the ends or breaking the string or cables. The tunnel is getting really crowded. Thanks goodness the folk at CS left the string in the tunnel.

At this point all wires are pulled except a VHF antenna cable. It's all open and waiting for me to get back to it. Somehow, since I purchased the Lowrance LMS-525 cDF in Dec., I had misplaced the 4mm screws to attach the GPS receiver hockey puck. I also discovered there is no easy access to that corner of the boat, so I'll have to cut an access hole and install an access port to get to the location. I'll have to get my courage up to cut a hole in the rear deck. Oh yes, installing the heavy connectors on the battery ends of the leads was no picnic. My crimping tool was not heavy enough.

At a stopping point with the wiring I decided to install the piece of star board on the bottom of the transom for mounting the transducer. Yes, some water came out of the first hole. This boat has never even been rained on, although it has seen a good bit of use in the last 3 months. Only a little water however. I wonder how much would come out from a hole in the lowest point on the transom.

The point of all this is you guys gave me the confidence to do these jobs myself. But you do make what I did yesterday sound easy. Maybe to you all it is. But I was challenged at every turn. But I will persist and I will get it done. I may need to seek some specific advice. But I know the forum will be there to help.

I just can't wait to get the GPS functional so I can follow First Sarge out 26 miles.

Aubrey

[Harry]

Well since we have the same yr boat motor...etc , I can hardly wait, to undercover mine and get started. I hope you also pulled in a new cord (rope) when pulling in your cables? Any addition to the cable tunnel in the futrue will surely be next to impossible ?

[Shakespeare]

The point of all this is you guys gave me the confidence to do these jobs myself. But you do make what I did yesterday sound easy. Maybe to you all it is. But I was challenged at every turn. But I will persist and I will get it done. I may need to seek some specific advice. But I know the forum will be there to help.

Shaggy, I think we've all had some sort of challenge when making boat modifications. I suffered through some of the same stuff as you with getting the rubber cable boot off the floor, pulling out the excess wire, getting that transducer cable pulled through, and so forth. I don't know what to say other than you just got to work through each issue as it arises and try not to be in a hurry. I do remember doing some real soul searching before I cut a hole in the console for the VHF radio though... there are no second chances... but there's always starboard to cover up the ut oh. ::)

Mike C.

[shaggy3131]

Harry,

Yes I did pull in an additional cord. Some of the cables went best from fore to aft and some had to go aft to fore. I pulled them one at a time. I don't believe they could have been pulled all together through that crowded tunnel. I hope none of the end fittings were damaged in the pulling process. I like the idea of the flat floor and the wiring tunnel. But there is something to be said for the old wiring chase whose cover could be removed. Good luck on your wiring.

Before you spring for a VHF, consider the NMEA 2000 vs NMEA 0183 compatibility questions I raised in the recent VHF thread. The 302 is a discontinued model but from what I hear a good radio. Good price.

Aubrey

[Harry]

My old aquasport had the best setup for the cables. The cable run was sunk into th efloor and had a cover board the th e2007 and older skiffs, but it was flush with the floor 012

Thanks for the heads up on the NMEA 2000 vs NMEA 0183 compatibility questions

[workinprogress]

Shakespeare--The link to Blue Sea Systems was incredibly helpful. Here are some of the items I am considering.
http://bluesea.com/category/7/27/products/4386
http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/products/2306
A few extra bucks for the circuit breaker panel vs. the comparable fuse panel, but much more user friendly. I am thinking the small buss bar can be mounted by the circuit breaker panel to collect the grounds. I still have a few questions. The buss bar I am looking at doesn't have a large terminal like most of the others to connect the main neg cable from the battery. Can I connect the main neg line in the same hole that I mount the buss bar with? Would I be better off with something like this?
http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/products/2314
That buss bar only has five individual ground connections. I think I am going to need 6. Is it a bad idea to connect 2 grounds to one connection?
I am setting up my j16 not with a cc, but with a tiller handle. I've got a good friend who is a wizard at stainless steel fabrication so custom mounting brackets are no problem. Any suggestions as to good mounting locations for these components. Also, I'm am really up in the air as to just where to mount the gps. Thanks for the help.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

work, you can connect more than one negative wires to a single terminal if you have no choice.Doesn't do any bad, might accelerate corrosion, but you take care that with vaseline. ;D

[o2bfishn]

Is that what die electric grease is, vaseline?

02bfishn

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Is that what die electric grease is, vaseline?

02bfishn


yeap

[Shakespeare]

Shakespeare--The link to Blue Sea Systems was incredibly helpful. Here are some of the items I am considering.
http://bluesea.com/category/7/27/products/4386
http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/products/2306
A few extra bucks for the circuit breaker panel vs. the comparable fuse panel, but much more user friendly. I am thinking the small buss bar can be mounted by the circuit breaker panel to collect the grounds. I still have a few questions. The buss bar I am looking at doesn't have a large terminal like most of the others to connect the main neg cable from the battery. Can I connect the main neg line in the same hole that I mount the buss bar with? Would I be better off with something like this?
http://bluesea.com/category/9/35/products/2314
That buss bar only has five individual ground connections. I think I am going to need 6. Is it a bad idea to connect 2 grounds to one connection?
I am setting up my j16 not with a cc, but with a tiller handle. I've got a good friend who is a wizard at stainless steel fabrication so custom mounting brackets are no problem. Any suggestions as to good mounting locations for these components. Also, I'm am really up in the air as to just where to mount the gps. Thanks for the help.


You would think that a 100 amp busbar would have a place to connect a 100 amp wire, wouldn't you? 006 The first bar #2306 looks like the intentions are to use the mounting bolt as the 'main' connection point. I don't know how else you would do it. The 2314 looks like it's got those 1/4" studs that you can hook to... seems that they would include something about that in the description. I personally like the 2314 but either would work fine.

No cc? Hmmm, obviously you'd wan't to mount the distribution box closest to the things that you're distributing to, yet out of the elements. There's some fiberglass enclosures that can be used in a situation like yours.

See; http://www.hoffmanonline.com/product_catalog/product_detail.aspx?cat_1=34&cat_2=2304&cat_3=2337&catID=2337&itemID=3146

These enclosures can be had in different configurations, surface mount, flush mount etc. You could use cord connectors for the incoming and outgoing wiring and that would keep everything weather tight.

Mike C.

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

What it looks like is that the 2306 is to connect all the negative wires and the 2314 all the positive wires when you use in-line fuses.The 2314 has a cover,i see, to protect kinda from a short.